As some of you may have seen, I built a prototype of a small infill smoother (blog starts here). This went well enough that I decided to make one for myself from precision ground steel. Well, as it turns out, with the way lengths work for precision ground O1, I ended up buying enough for 3 small smoothers and 4 blades, which is perfect, since the prototype needs a blade. So off went my money and a few days later, a package arrived with the steel, some new drill bits, and a scriber. A go...
Spiers of Ayr infill smoother – restoreA gift from my friend Jamie Speirs. So back again!I know I have not been so much around for a while, first I was sick for some months and then a long summer of travelling, in Denmark Jutland Thy, then Croatia, back to Denmark Sjælland Odden, kayaking and then finally Ireland and then Scotland to visit my friend Jamie. Then home to pack down the shop, that will be closed for house renovation until the new year (shit happens), so I will be without...
Sorry it’s been so long between entries, two-a-day football practices sort of got in the way ;) I guess I’ll continue where I left off… While I was waiting for my steel to arrive from McMaster- Carr I moved my attention to the infill. I had to slightly re-size and refine my original drawing to the final bed angle(50 degrees) and plan out exactly where I wanted the bolts and how the infill would fit in. I used my new drawing to make some paper templates which I just gl...
This is my first blog post, so don’t be to alarmed if it is the biggest piece of garbage you have ever read. I’ll try my best though ;) For the past few months, I have been in a tool craze. Whether it is planes, saws, braces, chisels, or even miter boxes, I just can’t get enough. So when Don W started his blog about making an infill, I saw how easy it could be, and figured why not try it myself. I get a beautiful and functional tool to add to my collection, and some more ...
So another way to attach the sides is tapping and peening. I thought I’d give it a try on a small smoother. I decided on aluminum sides and hot rolled steel for the sole. The aluminum is 1/8” x 2” and hot the rolled steel is about 3/8” x 1 7/8”. I wanted to use a 1 5/8” block plane iron. Infill is cherry. Lever cap is brass. This time I cut the sole in 2 pieces. I found this technique a lot easier. The I drilled the sides. And tapered them with a r...
So making the infill wasn’t so bad. Its so much easier when make a base. When you make the base, its square and true, unlike the inside of the cast vintage planes, so making and addind the base is much easier. I choose walnut for this, and after some help from my friend over on the HPOYD thread, I decided to ebonize it. Most of this is just normal woodworking, at least for the first part. And marking and laying it out, I decided to make this one in 1 piece. I’m...
As I stated in the first part, there are several ways to connect the sides of an infill to te sole. In this plane I’ll try my hand at dovetailing. There are numerous videos, instruction and blogs about cutting the dovetails. I suggest you watch them all. I am pretty sure I did. For the woodworking folks around here, the layout isn’t really any different than wood. Add some layout fluid, and use the same tools you use for a drawer. A straight edge, layout guide and dovetail m...
Making an infill has been on my bucket list for quite some time now. Making tools to me is more of a hobby than the actual woodworking. If you are looking to build an infill, you’re welcome to follow me along. I’ll try to keep the blog as up to date as time allows and would love feedback from others taking the same path. The metal work of the infill intimidated me a bit and I’m not really sure why. I can weld, I’ve done my share of body work, gunsmithing and tin work, ...
I’ve been working on this for 6 or 8 months. I’d do a little, loose interest, and set it back on the shelf. It sat so long I wound up using the frog, blade, cap iron and cap for another plane long since forgotten. The current frog has a broken top, so the lateral adjustment lever is gone. I will need to find 2. One for the nice #4 it came from and a replacement for this one. The infill is made from ash. The front knob was a broken knob off a transitional. I had originally plann...
This is a blog entry that I am using to collect information on sharpening. I will be updating this information periodically as I come across additional information. Please feel free to contribute information if you desire. Sharpening Books The Complete Guide to Sharpening by Leonard Lee – Covers sharpening of tools in general. I own this book. Taunton's COMPLETE ILLUSTRATED guide to SHARPENING by Thomas Lie-Nielsen – I have looked at this book a number of times and wi...
- My Journey As A Creative Designer - Woodworking and Beyond - 1727 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 98 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- Life as an Amateur Woodworker - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1752 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- dbhost - 410 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- mafe - 301 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 237 entries
- Betsy - 228 entries
- stefang - 213 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- robscastle - 207 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 207 entries
- Dave Rutan - 205 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 193 entries
- Rustic - 190 entries