When we left off, the two pieces of steel were machine screwed together, so it’s time to add the body. While the steel and wood are still separate pieces, it’s a good time to mark out any major shaping you would like to do. The way I’ve built them allows for no tote if shaped well. Clamp the body and steel together, figure out where your hand will set comfortably and mark. I cut the metal with a jigsaw and the wood on the band saw. There are plenty of other ...
With the mouth cut, it’s time to start the metal work. First step is to connect the two pieces of steel. Now, I don’t claim to be a machinist and there are likely better ways to do some of these steps. But I’ll post what worked best for me and you can change and adapt as your skills and available tools allow. At the end of the piece of 1/8 steel, mark where you want to install the first machine screw. If you have layout fluid, that would be best. In place of that, ...
With the body rabbeted out to accept the side plate, it’s time to cut the actual mouth. If you haven’t yet, now would be a good time to cut the metal pieces to final length. Since the O1 hasn’t been hardened, it cuts pretty easily. I did the first two planes with just a hacksaw. For this one, I used a hacksaw on the 3/8 and a jigsaw on the 1/8. Lay the piece of 1/8 steel on the bench and the wood blank on top and tightly nestled in the rabbet. I hope your wood blan...
With everything ready for the frog to be installed, it’s time to start adjusting to some final dimensions. First thing is body depth. If your blank started at 1-3/4, you should be close to the correct depth, as most transitional bodies are 1-1/2 thick and there is about 1/4in of cast iron frame on top of that. Here’s the best way I’ve found check thickness. Adjust the depth adjuster knob to about 1/2 way from front to back and set the frog on the body. With the iron...
Here’s where we left off. Mouth opening has been cut and worked to final dimension. Now it’s time to get the frog to fit. A transitional frog has the little bump out on the bottom where the lever cap screw attaches. On an original body, there’s a pocket for that part, we just need to recreate it. Easiest way to mark it out is to first use a small square to mark a line perpendicular to the bed intersecting the line on the face of the bed. This will be the ...
With layout all marked up, it’s time to cut the opening. I did this with a sliding compound miter saw and the plane was designed to make that the best tool to use. If you don’t have a SCMS or are just more comfortable with a table saw and miter gauge or handsaws, no reason not to use them. For a miter saw, set the bevel to 20 degrees and the miter to 45 degrees. Hopefully you have a depth stop. If so, mark the proper distance up from the table on a piece of scrap and do som...
With materials in hand, it’s time to start the actual work. First step is to create the mouth, bedding surface for the iron and front escapement area for the shavings. For infill bench planes, the wood can be cut completely apart and held on with the two metal sides during final assembly. Since this shooting plane only has one metal side, that strategy is not a good possibility. With many wooden plane builds, making this opening requires either chiseling out the area or doing a ...
During the 2015 Plane and Spokeshave Swap, I built a couple of what came to be called Transitional Infill Shooting Planes. A few people asked for a blog, but there weren’t enough pics to really document the build, so it wasn’t done. Well, after completing a few other projects, I decided to build one more and will try to do a detailed enough blog that someone else could follow along and build their own shooting plane. Lets get started. Gathering materials. First thin...
As some of you may have seen, I built a prototype of a small infill smoother (blog starts here). This went well enough that I decided to make one for myself from precision ground steel. Well, as it turns out, with the way lengths work for precision ground O1, I ended up buying enough for 3 small smoothers and 4 blades, which is perfect, since the prototype needs a blade. So off went my money and a few days later, a package arrived with the steel, some new drill bits, and a scriber. A go...
Spiers of Ayr infill smoother – restoreA gift from my friend Jamie Speirs. So back again!I know I have not been so much around for a while, first I was sick for some months and then a long summer of travelling, in Denmark Jutland Thy, then Croatia, back to Denmark Sjælland Odden, kayaking and then finally Ireland and then Scotland to visit my friend Jamie. Then home to pack down the shop, that will be closed for house renovation until the new year (shit happens), so I will be without...
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