I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool – and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag. ----- For drawer pull layout I used Scott Collins no-math layout method. My drawer pulls have 2 bolts, 3” on center. -----I made a full-height jig to drill the holes for the machine bo...
Here is my setup for cutting half blind dovetails. I use a larger-than-stock 14 degree dovetail bit. I think it makes nicer looking dovetail joints, and they feel much stronger. Here is a link to my blog about the special bit… http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40073-----This is the bit I use, which is a Rockler item. You can still cut these dovetails in one pass with the PC jig. -----I trimmed some aromatic cedar plywood to size and test fit the drawers.-----Grooves were cut for the dra...
With the top built, it was time to turn my attention to the backsplash inlay and wedge detail. ----I cut a double sided taper on the backsplash piece using a tapering jig at the tablesaw. ----I saved my offcuts to make wedge shapes. The wedges were glued back onto the backsplash. I was careful to place the wedge in its original position so the grain would align. ---- The backsplash is carpet taped to a strip of MDF. This creates a straight reference point to cut shallow dados for m...
Here is the plan from my design. It incorporates some Stickley design elements. --The dresser carcases are assembled, including the small divider that separates the top two drawers.--The small dividers are attached with biscuits. To cut the slots, I opened the top two web frames like a clamshell. The web frames were aligned, and clamped together. Then I added an Emerson straightedge clamp, positioned to center the small divider on the web frame. --The ruler on the Emerson clamp helps cen...
It is now time to build the web frames that function as drawer dividers. The web frames are notched around the legs, and I decided to cut the notches with a dado blade. Here is my setup at the tablesaw with sacrificial fences on both the tablesaw and miter gauge. The result was nice crisp corners on the notches. This will be a visible joint at the front of the dresser. A bandsaw could also accomplish the task, but not quite as easily as a dado blade. After cutting pieces to ...
Top finished Frame assembled Four-inch long T30 lags secure the top timbers. Laminated or not? By laying out my jointlines carefully, I was able to laminate some 8/4 and 5/4 together. The glueline is at the angle of the timber, so it is not visible. In addition, I laminated some thin veneers on both sides. Back to the project page… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/71281
I never would have guessed that cutting 4 mortises would take all afternoon. Because the mortises are angled to match the wedges, the fitting process takes a little longer than usual. I cut the first one by hand, then decided to cut the rest at the mortiser. Cutting past the layout line on the shoulder side of the mortise will ensure the joint pulls tight. Keys installed. A few taps on the wedges and the shoulders draw up tight. The keys were cut on the bandsaw. When the k...
After pattern routing the long arched rails, it was time to turn my attention to the top. I started with 6/4 stock, all from the same log. Biscuits were placed every 6” to help with alignment and add strength. I once did an experiment with biscuits – joined two boards with biscuits (no glue) and soaked them in water for a while. I took it around to each family member to see if they could pull the boards apart—- and none could. I took the top over to Creative Woodwo...
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