At long last, I was cleared (sort of) for duty back in the shop. This back injury has been a doozy and has brought my woodworking almost to a standstill—-and at the worst time too. With daytime highs now in the low to mid 30s, my unheated shop is all but closed up for the winter. Undeterred, I am powering through the rough spots. I picked up where leaving off oh, a month or two ago, and cut out the pieces for the hinge. I think this picture is pretty self explanatory: ...
I completed the mechanism for the inside of the box lid and fit it to to canvasse boards that it will hold. I believe they are 12”X9? I built the cover for the top out of baltic birch ply and chamfered the edges to make it a bit more sleek. I put my artistic abilities to the test and printed off a quote from the English illustrator Arthur Rackham. I made sure the font was something attractive but would still be easy to burn. I printed the quote out and taped it to graphite transfer...
Well, I thought this would only take one evening, but it was more like 3 evenings and a morning! The hinges arrived from Lee Valley on Monday on time. From past experience, I knew the #4 screws are a little small in diameter and were going to be too long for the lids. Last time I used #6, but they were a little big and I had to open up the countersinks to get them to fit. This time I went with #5 screws – 1/2 inch for the lid and 3/4” for the box. Now that the hin...
Mortising the HingesHanging doors involves a mixture of precise work and some trial and error. The first step is to choose a hinge and then mortise the case frame to receive the hinge. A common approach for hinge placement is to locate the top of the upper hinge even with the bottom of the upper rail and locate the bottom of the lower hinge even with the top of the lower rail of the door frame. I should have thought ahead and routed these mortises before assembling the case. However, I fo...
Finally hanging the doors is the next step in this long process. I stand my doors in the opening they will go and put them on a flat scrap of wood, just enough to give the clearance under the door that I want. I use about 1/8” – 3/16” up off the floor. Then I mark the top and bottom of the hinge recesses I’ve already cut out on the doors. I tape a hinge onto the door frame at the correct spot and trace around it with a pencil: Then I carefully cut around the...
Time to put hinges on the doors. I’m going to use 3 hinges per door, so I mark with pencil by tracing around where they will sit right on the door edge. I then use a sharp knife and cut the outline out to no more than a depth of 1/16”. Then I get my hinge and set it on the base of my trim router which has a straight bit in it. The cutting depth of the bit (the amount protruding out of the base) is set as the thickness of the hinge, which in my case is about 1/16”...
The Roubo bookstand. It is one piece that truly fascinates me. Why? Perhaps it is the wooden hinge or the fact that the entire piece is made from one section of wood. The curves and the overall shape give it a look the outdoes anything with metal hardware. They are fun to make and a joy to look at. For this project I did not want to rush and make a mistake, so I am splitting it over two days. I picked out my last piece of mahogany and packed some tools and headed off. Now to make the Roubo...
After showing some of my boxes in “Projects”. I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish. With any type hinge, the layout is critical. These hinges are simple to install, but you must get your holes in the right place. If you don’t, I can assure you , you will not like the results, and you will not be able to go back and...
A couple of weeks ago I posted a project of a wedding ring box I made for my wife. It actually received quite a few comments about how I made the hinges…which I guess we are calling double action hinges. Since there was quite a few questions on how I made it, I decided that I should probably make a tutorial, considering I learn so much from tutorials on here. The box had hinges that were only about 4 cm, but for this I am doing larger ones so my camera picks up the steps better. ...
After seeing shipwright’s nifty wooden box hinge technique , I knew I had to try it myself. I’m not sure if it’s been attempted on this large a scale, but I’m happy with how it came out. The only change I made to the original technique was putting the grooves on the face of the board instead of the edge, that way the somewhat-unsightly filled groove would be hidden from view on the outside of the tool chest. Here is the initial setup with the grooves still open: ...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1367 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Just for Fun... - 84 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1390 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 393 entries
- dbhost - 389 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- mafe - 228 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 190 entries
- Rustic - 185 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- shipwright - 180 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 166 entries
- PurpLev - 163 entries
- stefang - 158 entries