So, my bride comes to me this morning asking, “what’s wrong with this picture?” Realizing that it had been quite a few years since my first Hepplewhite stand, I committed to build another to even out the look of our bedroom. The first stand, built in 1997, has red oak legs, hackberry sides and drawer font, and a sassafras top. It was finished with shellac and beeswax. The top has been re-waxed several times over the years and is in need of a touch up. As to the new stand,...
I am new to lumberjocks and was recommended by a current user. Check out this video I made that shows how to use hand tools to inlay a design in stringing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUSfz3n7nYE
A while back I posted a project that I did in my shop in California with my woodworking friend Jack Hutchison from Houston, TX. Here is that post: A Krenov Inspired Cabinet on Stand in Six Days We completed that cabinet during a six day visit by Jack. Our agreement was that at some future date, I would go to Houston and we’d do another six day project in his shop. So….I arrived at Jack’s and we completed a much more complicated piece in another six day time frame and here it is………....
Although the drawknife quickly removed the waste along the tapers, the surface was left rough. Using a 1-1/2” chisel (honed to a 25° bevel) I pared the tapers to a flat surface, getting as close to the knife wall as I felt comfortable. After paring with the chisel, I set a block plane for a thin shaving and planed along the tapers, getting closer and closer, until the knife wall disappeared. Remember that nasty knot I discovered while ripping the leg pieces? Well … this was the best ...
The legs are tapered, the drawbore pins are all set … the frame is standing on its own! With the drawer front fitted to the base … ... nice and smooth, and perfectly square (well, as perfectly square as any rectangle can be), it was on to the sides, back, and bottom pieces. I decided to re-saw a 3/4 inch thick pine board to make two 1/8 inch thick slats for the drawer bottom. I kerfed the sides and ends … ... to make easy work of the re-sawing. After a bit of work with ...
Now that the drawer is complete, things are progressing at breakneck speed. Having cut the top to size, I attached the cleats and bored pilot holes in the sides for attachment later. I rubbed in the pre-assembled drawer guides and drawer runners … ... level with the drawer rail. I used a depth gauge to maintain level from front … ... to back. Just as I had excepted the first fitting of the drawer was off … just a bit too high on the right! I took the time to fashion ...
After but a few distractions, my head is now back in the game! I spent a couple of hours squaring up the cherry legs with my No. 4 bench plane and No. 3 coffin smoother … ... turned out okay … nice and square … I never see light under the square when I point it to the rear of the shop (hmmm) ... ... and no twist … that I can see anyway! Once all squared-up, I mark off about an inch of waste at the top end of each leg and lay-out the various mortises for the drawer ...
It finally stopped raining! I shouldn’t complain because we actually needed the rain, everything had become so dry. But, at any rate, the sun is out and I can see all the way to the back of the shop. So it is time to get this little stand laid-out and rough cut. I glued-up the top a few weeks ago. I think the Ambrosia maple looks awesome … you? It is currently over-sized by a few inches, I’ll cut it to fit once the base is completed. The lumber I get from Suwanee Lumber ...
It’s been raining for a day or so here in Lilburn, and as a result I haven’t had much shop time. Too dark. But, I’m still moving forward with my little Hepplewhite stand. Given that the original stand was built 19 years ago, I thought it prudent to measure all the parts, as I did not measure anything back then. I simply established a comfortable height and filled the space where she was going to rest. Unfortunately, I kept no notes; at least I cannot find any, other than...
Before jumping into the mortise and tenon joints I thought it a good idea to make sure my chisels have a proper edge. For this project I need a 3/8 mortise chisel, a 1/2” firmer chisel for the half blind dovetails, and a 1-1/2” bevel edge chisel for the tapered legs. A proper edge is actually quite simple. You need but two intersecting planes. Generally, the smaller the angle between the two planes, the sharper the edge and easier the cut. The smaller the angle, though, the less force it ...
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