[Above] I used an actual bracket assembly to locate the holes in the spine segments. These allow a bolt to keep the tables from falling out from the spine. [Below] The larger table showing the rear cut out and the pine edging. I chamfered the bottom edge of both tables to give them a lighter, tray-like appearance. [Below] A few coats of spray lacquer is all that’s needed. I decided not to go to the trouble of staining this project. The birch plywood looks nice against the pi...
I’ve set out to build a desk that I saw online. In this case much of the work has been done for me because the website where the desk is sold actually lists the dimensions of the parts. That said, I’m making a few small changes. I’m not revealing my target until it’s done, so stick around to see where we end up. [Below] It’s just possible that this project could be made from a quarter sheet of plywood. I’m not sure yet, plus I’ve already violated ...
Yes, a topic close to all our hearts – how to keep our clamps stored efficiently but kept easily accessible. After realising that a previously-useless-seeming space could be used to hang clamps, and looking at many ways to do so, I grabbed some scrap, glued it, cut it, screwed it to more scrap, then screwed the whole lot on the wall. I’ll add some more jutting-out-bits so that the rest of the clamps can be hung on there too.
After seeing a few of my other veneer works, I was approached to make a Red Sox wall hanging for someone to give as a gift. Seeing as how I am still looking for more experience on this marquetry kick I’m on, I decided to go for it. Now, I’m not a fan of Baseball period, so don’t let this logo make you think I’m a Red Sox fan. We decided on a rather large size of 24”x24” overall, which will be more beneficial to me for the small pieces that needed cutting...
Wall space is a premium in my shop because of the multiple uses of the space. When I started thinking about making clamps I knew I would need a place to store them. I devised a way to put a clamp rack in front of my scrap stick area and hinge it so that it could be pulled up to the ceiling when I didn’t need to access my longer clamps. It’s raised with two pullies with the rope held taught with an old window sash weight. A clip hooks onto a screw eye at the bottom of the rack...
The first act was to deconstruct the old topper, as noted in Installment #1. But thinking the whole thing was made of oak was a mistake. Here are a couple of pics of side boards, post-glue-up to address splitting that had taken place over the years. This piece was totally abused (mostly in outbuildings) and has been separated from it’s base for decades: But for the tambour door slats, these sides are the only solid oak pieces of the cabinet. The major partitions as well as th...
Making and hanging the door using “chunky” butt hinges. Oh and the end credits are at the wrong end….yes I noticed that.
Got a bunch of little wood scrap blocks, some planks, rope, and hooks? I found this online: More pics.
Here’s my most boring time-lapse yet – sanding up the cabinet doors to flush the rails and stiles, and prepare it for finishing. Speaking of… something I’d heard whispered around here a few times came to mind the other day while trying to get extremely gummy stickers off the maple I used in this project: mineral spirits. It says right on the can “for cleaning surfaces in preparation for painting.” I wiped some on, and just like goop-off, the sticker goo wip...
For best viewing, the center of the framed image should be approximately 63” above the floor. Any picture frame larger than 8” X 10” should be hung using two hooks. This reduces the torque on the frame and also prevents movement of the picture on the wall. If the wire on the frame is too tight to use two hooks then the frame should be re-wired. When wiring a frame, the wire should be long enough so that the angle between the wire attaching point and the nearest hooking position is app...
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