I’m calling this a reveal rather than a review, because quite frankly I’m not the guy you want reviewing hand planes. You see, I’m a power tool guy, but as I mention in the video, I’m starting to fall back in love with hand tools. In recent months I’ve been researching planes and while there are some incredible planes available from Lie-Nielsen and Lee Valley, I just couldn’t bring myself to part with that much of my hard earned cash. Enter the new Woodc...
A few months back. Mike (jockmike2) and I went in together on a couple hundred board feet of air dried lumber at Raven’s Farm, a mill that is local to us. The cost came out to about 1.25 a board foot which was a steal as far as I was concerned. Boards have been setting for a bit, with a dozen getting acclimated to the shop. I don’t have the space for a jointer so have been working the boards with a recent plane addition and then running them through my Ridgid. Woodworking i...
I have been fortunate enough to assemble and use an array of handplanes – Stanley Bailey bench, block, and specific use planes, oriental woodies of various sizes, Lee Valley Veritas bevel up and scraper planes, and some other assorted types. It took a while, as in 4-5 years of using, fettling, trying various methods of things and different plane designs to form up some conclusions from my experiences. I thought I would pass along these experiences, primarily with the lesser experienced in min...
Ever since I saw Mafe's router plane I’ve had the desire to make one. As I do most often I look here on LJs for inspiration. Well, I found it. As I searched I came across this gem of a router plane made by Tinnocker. Tinnocker got his inspiration from Mafe’s design as well. I used a picture of Tinnockers design to come up with my version of a router plane. The body of the plane is hard maple. The handles are from some old chair spindles I had laying around, The plane iron is a ...
I have been bitten by the hand plane bug recently. I used to think I was above such a disease, but alas, I am not. Over the last month it has taken hold. Hopefully it can be contained to a bench plane only type of sickness. My journey is only beginning, at this point the really only successful thing I do well in the hand plane world is pay for them. I see there is a long way to go in my technique and understanding of the tools. I find them interes...
In the last shop update, I briefly mentioned a grooving plane that did not work so well. The idea was to have a tool that could quickly make the grooves in the bottom of draw and box stock to accept the drawer/box bottom. The new design really rocks, so much that I made three sizes (widths): 1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4”. Although these are intended for making the grooves on drawer and box sides, I have been discovering more uses for the flexible design of these planes: Shop Jou...
Step Two – Flatten the Shavings The shavings need to be flat so they are usable for flower making. This is easily done by soaking the shavings in a container of water for ten minutes or more. The shavings will still be curled but running a hot iron on the shaving as it is unrolled will evaporate the water and leave a flattened strip of paper-like wood. Please don’t use the iron that you use for ironing clothes and other fabrics! The process described here is not kind to the iron as y...
Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.
A radius plane and a standard plane.. Both are just intended for small cleanup, finishing, that sort of thing. I actually use them on a regular basis—I love the radius plane. When I do miniature work they are also fantastic. As I mention in the video, they are a great learning tool if you want to dip your feet into some hand tools but don’t want to make the commitment to something large (in cost or size). You don’t have to try and build an entire project with it, it becom...
If you have been waiting for the next instalment of this tutorial, I apologize for the delay! This step is not absolutely necessary but I think it adds character to the finished flower. I create a star-shaped calyx by cutting three dart-shaped pieces from along the length of a shaving. These pieces are then soaked in water to encourage them to curl. With all three pieces placed with curls moving in the same direction, they can then be glued at the centre to form the calyx as shown below...
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