LumberJocks

Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'hand plane'

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Making Wooden Flowers #5: Adding the Final Rows

03-26-2014 11:05 PM by Ronbrush | 1 comment »

Assembling Rows Four to Seven Adding rows 4 to 7 follows the same procedure as described in the previous section: The photo below shows the fourth row glued together and ready for bending. Notice again that the grain on these petals runs crosswise in order to create a soft curve when the row is bent and glued into a cone. Here is the result after the centre rows have been inserted. Remember to use the “centre guide” (see previous entry) to keep things aligned. ...

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Making Wooden Flowers #4: Starting the Assembly

03-24-2014 02:24 AM by Ronbrush | 6 comments »

Step Four – Assemble the Centre Petals I prepare the petals by soaking them in water for a few minutes to make them pliable. I set a few petals on tissue to absorb excess water before gluing. I use cyanoacrylate adhesive because it is fast setting. Moisture helps to speed up the curing process. This makes it the ideal adhesive for this project. I also keep a can of acetone and several cotton swabs handy for those inevitable times when my fingers become part of a flower!...

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Making Wooden Flowers #3: Cutting the Petals

03-24-2014 01:02 AM by Ronbrush | 2 comments »

Step Three – Cut out the Flower Petals If you wish to make a rose like the ones in my spring bouquet, you will need 28 flower petals for each rose. You can eliminate one or two rows but the result is less impressive in my opinion. The petals are arranged in layers or tiers when the flower is assembled. It helps to cut out a template from stiff paper or card stock. Use a soft pencil to trace the shape onto the basswood shavings. A sharp pair of scissors will do the job of c...

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Making Wooden Flowers #2: Flattening the Shavings

03-23-2014 09:38 PM by Ronbrush | 4 comments »

Step Two – Flatten the Shavings The shavings need to be flat so they are usable for flower making. This is easily done by soaking the shavings in a container of water for ten minutes or more. The shavings will still be curled but running a hot iron on the shaving as it is unrolled will evaporate the water and leave a flattened strip of paper-like wood. Please don’t use the iron that you use for ironing clothes and other fabrics! The process described here is not kind to the iron as y...

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Japanese tools #25: Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

03-23-2014 04:33 PM by mafe | 17 comments »

MaFe style Kanna jointer IIJapan meets Krenov In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane) This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had th...

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Handplanes #2: First Handplane

02-11-2014 09:59 PM by OSU55 | 1 comment »

First Handplane.A very common question – “What planes do I start with?” – and a plethora of opinion out there to answer it! So, I thought I’d throw mine out there as well. It’s possible you are at the stage I was when I started – I didn’t know brands, sizes, types, uses – basically zip. I spent months researching – in part because I like to research and understand something I’m interested in, and because there is a lot of information and opinion about handplanes and what the...

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Temporary hand plane and saw till AKA Real Jewelry!

01-22-2014 06:20 PM by CFrye | 14 comments »

Shop storage is currently a bunch of open shelving that hubby put up. It’s a temporary thing and we both are looking forward to improving on it. Since I’ve started down the slippery slope of hand tools the shelves are getting rather cluttered on my side. I’m looking at plans for wall hung cabinets. I’ve got a nasty respiratory bug that has kept me out of the shop all of January (doc says no dust producing activities) and so, not wanting to be idle, I’ve taken the...

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Handplane Performance Tuning #3: Chip Breakers & Cap Irons

01-21-2014 05:50 PM by OSU55 | 3 comments »

Cap iron or chip breaker, blade or iron – Some folks write treatises about which term is “correct”. I use the one that comes to mind, they mean the same thing. Chip Breaker Function The chip breaker adds mass to the blade and adds stiffness to the blade, and with the lever cap pushing down, seats breaker & blade flat on the frog, creating more blade stiffness (cap iron). A very important, but lesser known, function of the chip breaker is to create a force down the chip fibers as the...

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Handplane Performance Tuning #2: Sole Flatness

01-15-2014 05:04 PM by OSU55 | 0 comments »

Why Sole Flatness?Convex (bulging out) and concave (hollowed out) soles will cause uneven cut depths and skipping and chattering. For a convex shape, the plane rocks front to back and/or side to side. A concave shape will cause heavier cuts at the start and end of a surface, and possibly no cut in the middle. Different amounts of downward hand pressure can affect each stroke causing more confusion. Even with a very flat sole varying downward pressure will affect the cut. Reduce the variables ...

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Handplane Performance Tuning #1: Sharpening Blades / Irons

01-13-2014 11:27 PM by OSU55 | 3 comments »

I have been fortunate enough to assemble and use an array of handplanes – Stanley Bailey bench, block, and specific use planes, oriental woodies of various sizes, Lee Valley Veritas bevel up and scraper planes, and some other assorted types. It took a while, as in 4-5 years of using, fettling, trying various methods of things and different plane designs to form up some conclusions from my experiences. I thought I would pass along these experiences, primarily with the lesser experienced in min...

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