LumberJocks

Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'hand plane'

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Making Wooden Flowers #6: Adding Sepals (the Calyx)

105 days ago by Ronbrush | 2 comments »

If you have been waiting for the next instalment of this tutorial, I apologize for the delay! This step is not absolutely necessary but I think it adds character to the finished flower. I create a star-shaped calyx by cutting three dart-shaped pieces from along the length of a shaving. These pieces are then soaked in water to encourage them to curl. With all three pieces placed with curls moving in the same direction, they can then be glued at the centre to form the calyx as shown below...

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Gorgeous Tung Oil Finish on 18th Century Jointer Plane

123 days ago by WoodAndShop | 2 comments »

By Joshua Farnsworth (Writer at WoodAndShop.com) This VIDEO isn’t a tutorial. I just wanted to keep y’all up tonight with thoughts of the Tung oil falling into the pores of this beautiful beech jointer plane that I just finished building. (Click here to view the original blog post). I also wanted to announce that I just finished filming a DVD with Bill Anderson on how to build this traditional 18th century jointer plane from scratch, with traditional hand tools. Roy Underhill invited...

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Becoming a Galoot #6: The Galoot Returns

136 days ago by scruboak51 | 0 comments »

In addition to the hardwood floor install, bench build, jewelry box build and about a half dozen or so other in process projects I decided to add another one to the list. I found an old farm house style table at the local salvation army for $50. At 34 inches wide by 6.5 feet long (0.86 by 1.98 meters) it was a bit of an easy decision; I can’t buy raw wood that cheap. There were some condition issues, mostly due to the way it was initially built. The breadboard ends look to be gl...

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Making Wooden Flowers #5: Adding the Final Rows

156 days ago by Ronbrush | 1 comment »

Assembling Rows Four to Seven Adding rows 4 to 7 follows the same procedure as described in the previous section: The photo below shows the fourth row glued together and ready for bending. Notice again that the grain on these petals runs crosswise in order to create a soft curve when the row is bent and glued into a cone. Here is the result after the centre rows have been inserted. Remember to use the “centre guide” (see previous entry) to keep things aligned. ...

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Making Wooden Flowers #4: Starting the Assembly

159 days ago by Ronbrush | 6 comments »

Step Four – Assemble the Centre Petals I prepare the petals by soaking them in water for a few minutes to make them pliable. I set a few petals on tissue to absorb excess water before gluing. I use cyanoacrylate adhesive because it is fast setting. Moisture helps to speed up the curing process. This makes it the ideal adhesive for this project. I also keep a can of acetone and several cotton swabs handy for those inevitable times when my fingers become part of a flower!...

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Making Wooden Flowers #3: Cutting the Petals

159 days ago by Ronbrush | 2 comments »

Step Three – Cut out the Flower Petals If you wish to make a rose like the ones in my spring bouquet, you will need 28 flower petals for each rose. You can eliminate one or two rows but the result is less impressive in my opinion. The petals are arranged in layers or tiers when the flower is assembled. It helps to cut out a template from stiff paper or card stock. Use a soft pencil to trace the shape onto the basswood shavings. A sharp pair of scissors will do the job of c...

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Making Wooden Flowers #2: Flattening the Shavings

159 days ago by Ronbrush | 4 comments »

Step Two – Flatten the Shavings The shavings need to be flat so they are usable for flower making. This is easily done by soaking the shavings in a container of water for ten minutes or more. The shavings will still be curled but running a hot iron on the shaving as it is unrolled will evaporate the water and leave a flattened strip of paper-like wood. Please don’t use the iron that you use for ironing clothes and other fabrics! The process described here is not kind to the iron as y...

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Japanese tools #25: Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

160 days ago by mafe | 17 comments »

MaFe style Kanna jointer IIJapan meets Krenov In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane) This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had th...

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View CFrye's profile

Temporary hand plane and saw till AKA Real Jewelry!

219 days ago by CFrye | 14 comments »

Shop storage is currently a bunch of open shelving that hubby put up. It’s a temporary thing and we both are looking forward to improving on it. Since I’ve started down the slippery slope of hand tools the shelves are getting rather cluttered on my side. I’m looking at plans for wall hung cabinets. I’ve got a nasty respiratory bug that has kept me out of the shop all of January (doc says no dust producing activities) and so, not wanting to be idle, I’ve taken the...

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View OSU55's profile

Handplane Performance Tuning #3: Chip Breakers & Cap Irons

221 days ago by OSU55 | 3 comments »

Cap iron or chip breaker, blade or iron – Some folks write treatises about which term is “correct”. I use the one that comes to mind, they mean the same thing. Chip Breaker Function The chip breaker adds mass to the blade and adds stiffness to the blade, and with the lever cap pushing down, seats breaker & blade flat on the frog, creating more blade stiffness (cap iron). A very important, but lesser known, function of the chip breaker is to create a force down the chip fibers as the...

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