Here is my cherry refreshment table which will feature a single drawer and breadboard ends.-----I started by making breadboard mortises at the router table. The mortises are 1-1/4” deep and cut in multiple shallow passes. -----I used a 1/4” spiral bit to center a 3/8” groove in the breadboard ends. I made an initial pass in the standard right to left direction. Then I flipped the board end for end and made a pass from left to right to avoid a climb cut.-----I set up my t...
Modeled off Brian Hubble’s “Slim”. Can’t wait to see it standing up and finished.
In part 4 we finish the table! In this video I show you how I go about making a beautiful book matched top, I also show you how I make subtle curves and how I cut a under bevel for the top. Build A Simple Resaw Fence: http://www.jordswoodshop.com/?p=1258
In part 3 of the hall table build I finish the leg and frame assembly. The processes I show you include how I finish shaping the aprons, how I cut and fit the stretcher and I then go on to show you my finishing process. For weekly videos and content you wont find anywhere else visit:http://www.JordsWoodShop.com http://www.facebook.com/JordsWoodShop
This is the first of four videos in the “Build a Hall Table” video series. In this video I run you through the new project for JordsWoodShop.com, The processes I cover in this video include; Milling rough sawed timber to dimension, Using full scale drawings, basic marking out and cutting mortising using the plunge router. If you would like to know more about the process I went through to come up with the end product, or see more images I wrote an article thats viewable here ...
I cut all of the parts for the bases over the last couple of weeks, mortise and tenoned all of the rails and legs and rails, and assembled the bases. Each table used a custom jig for cutting the tapers on the table saw. My hope is to use these again for another commissioned project. They handle 26 1/4” and 28 1/4” legs. Each taper starts 1” below the edge of the rails, ending to a 7/8” taper at the ends. The sapele really planes well with a sharp low-angle blade....
I recently returned from seven awesome (and tiring) days of teaching at the William Ng School of Fine Woodworking. The first five days were dedicated to the Modern Hall Table, and the weekend class was focused on the frame. And believe it or not, the frame was the more challenging project to complete in the given time-frame. But I am glad to say that everyone was able to go home with some semblance of a finished project. I thought it would be fun to share some of the pictures I took durin...
This is my 1st attempt at building an indoor piece. I wanted a wall table for my office. It is made of red oak. I purchased some red oak on craiglist for $40.00. Most of it was only 3-5 inches wide with mitre cuts on one side. I cut off the mitres and used my table saw and planer to square the pieces up. I glued up pieces for the majority of the project. I tapered the legs on 4 sides using my table saw, with the Incra Miter 1000SE, which helped a lot! The legs are 1 3/4” at the top and ...
A friend of mine has been telling me for a while that he had shown his parents my website and that they love my work and wanted me to make them something. Well they eventually contacted me and commissioned me to make a table for them. They bought a lamp from an artist named Brian Giambastiani, which looks like a Jellyfish. The head, which illuminates, is made of blown glass, and the tentacles are copper wire. It is about 40” tall. So my challenge was to build a table that ...
I have decided to build a hallway table with two large walnut boards I bought last year (from craigslist). I have included two sketchup drawings of the concept. It will be 15” deep x 40” long x 31 1/2” tall and fits at the top of my second story stair landing. The detail picture shows where I’ll use some left-over cherry to border the drawers and rails with cherry that I will bead for effect. The drawing also shows a cherry inlay strip and circle, but if I have a good...
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