The back braces were made by cutting thin strips, “lams,” and then laminating them together on a form. Each back brace consists of four lams. The top and bottom lams are Walnut, the same as the rest of the chair. The middle two lams are quarter sawn ash which gives them strength and flexibility. The lams are just shy of 1/8” thick and were cut on the table saw. This operation is generally not something I’d consider doing on the table saw—as its pretty much...
I didnt take a whole lot of photos of the front legs, but here are the few I got: Post #1 shows the slabs and the pattern that was used to outline the front legs. The first photo shows me rounding over the maloof joint to match the radius on the seat side of the joint. The maloof joint was cut the same as the back legs, but without the 6 degree splay (see the previous post). Fitting the joint: The next step was to add the adder block. I dont have a photo of it, but th...
The legs were cut from bookmatched slabs shown in post #1. The first step was cutting the pattern out of the blanks. With the legs cut, I marked the inside portion that needed to be removed: Next, I added an adder block for the seat joint. Unfortunately, I didnt get a shot of the initial glue up of the adder block. Since, the legs splay out at 6 degrees from the seat, the adder block needed to be cut at 6 degrees relative to the leg itself. To do this I made a 6 degree...
It’s been a long time since I made a blog post. I’ve been taking photos throughout the process, but I havent had a chance to update the blog. So here goes: The last post left off with the seat carved out and sanded to 80 grit. The next step was to shape the curve on the front with my trusty spokeshave (its not that trusty. I’m not good with hand tools, but I’m learning). Hal recommended sanding the seat at this point all the way to 1000 grit (abralon pads)...
Part 2 of my chair build—based on Hal Taylor’s plans. With the seat glued up, it was time to flatten it, trim it to size, and cut the notches for the back legs. In terms of flattening, I just wanted it flat enough to get square edges when I cut it on the table saw. I didnt need a perfect surface since it was going to be carved out and shaped later. To cut the 3”x3” back leg notches, I clamped the seat to my miter gauge that had a tall sacrificial board ...
I’ve been wanting to build a Maloof style rocker for about as long as I’ve been a woodworker (about 4 years I think)... I always put it off thinking that my skills werent there yet (still think that). I decided I’d wait until my wife and I were expecting our first child, and then I’d take the plunge and build one. Well, here we are. I need to have the chair done by Oct 5 :). So, my other project is going to have to wait (Arts and Crafts Dining Table). I started...
My mom went with me when I bought the wood for my first rocker and she realized I bought enough wood to make two rockers. She put her order in for one right then. Today is her birthday and mother’s day so I got started on the rocker. I don’t expect to get done until this winter because I don’t do much woodworking in the summer. 5/13/12 When I made my first rocker I cut enough rocker slats and back brace slats to make a second rocker. I got started by glueing up the ...
In the last post you saw my fancy-schmancy headrest cutting jig. Well, I couldn’t come up with any reasons not to use it, so I loaded up my one and only headrest blank, fired up the saw, and started cutting… Here you see the back side of the headrest after the first cut. As you can see, the blade blew out the back side as I went along, but I figured I could sand it out… It’s a bit hard to see, but this picture shows the blade position just after exiting...
Hey team,I’ve behind in my project updates, so I’ll try to put up a few short posts covering what I’ve done in the last few weeks. With front and rear legs attached to the chair seat, it’s time to cut out the curved headrest. If you remember, I glued up 6 pieces 8” tall with a 5 degree bevel on the edges to create a arc of wood. We want the finished headrest to be a smooth curve front and back on a 28.5 inch radius. Naturally, I built a jig: In...
We’ve all been there: you do the dry fit, you set up your clamps and cauls, you clamp it up dry, you remake your cauls and clamping blocks. Then you do it again. Then one more time, just to make sure. You clear everything from the area but the tools and parts you need. You go through the steps in your mind for the 20th time. Then you open the glue, and it all goes to sh!t… If you’ve been following along, you know I’ve spent the last two months building this roc...
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