“Why bother to make them? They’re cheap enough!” “Yes, but, it’s what I do!” ...Recycled mahogany. “ To Part Four
It’s difficult to see what’s going on here. this is a plywood caul that’s screwed down to the mould as a clamp as I glue on the soundboard. It seems easier than the yards of elastic that’s often used for the same purpose. This way to Part Seven
Take a long look at your sculpture Stewart; it’s the last you will see of it! Spread the Titebond. Not too much; we don’t want a mess inside there. In the Shaker tradition, even though we can’t see it, The Almighty can. The plywood caul is flexible enough to follow the curvature of the back or front.
Postings will slow down somewhat now. This is what I did today. On the router table, trimmed off the overhang on the back of the guitar. Marking out and cutting out for the end-seam inlay strip: I’m using a piece of quilted mahogany / sapele that will match the headstock veneer: My purflings… (Good grief; look at the state of my thumbnail!) and bindings arrived today. Sorry, I didn’t make ‘em! Last thing I did was to super...
When I last left you, we were right at the point of beginning construction on many of the jigs and forms that will make this endeavor much easier. Conveniently, the timing works very well since I’m still awaiting the opportunity to make it down to Austin to pick up that Performax 22/44 that I got off eBay (thanks to my cousin, Brady, for getting it for me). This, of course, will allow me to get all that beautiful wood down to thickness easily and more precisely. In the meantime, t...
Fine tuning the tail veneer & cutting dinky little mitres on the purflings. A nice piece of maple recycled from a shop fitting will do nicely for the fretboard. I Googled and then printed off a full size pattern for the frets. Attached it to the maple with d/s tape. and attached depth stops to a pull-saw of correct kerf width for frets I’m using… a rapidly knocked together ‘mitre’ box Result – happiness: I made a sanding block...
Hi everyone, finally I come back with a blog for a little project I been doing in my free time for the last 2 weeks. As it was bound to happen I think, having been a professional musician for nearly 20 years and now interested in woodworking as a hobby among some other things, finally bit the bullet and started building a CBG (cigar box guitar), and this is the short story, short because there really is not too much to tell as the build can be as simple or complicated as you want it to be....
The kit for this classical guitar came with a bookmatched pair of Engelmann spruce boards for the top. My pair has some beautiful silk in it that I hope will come out in the finish. After jointing the inner edges of the two boards and tapering the opposite edges. We used a wedge jig to glue up the top. The wedge applies the clamping pressure to the joint in the middle of the top. I then used hand planes to surface the outside of the top. The next step is installing the rosette t...
A family project, my wife and I are making ours first but my fifteen year old daughter also plans to build one later. Finding cigar boxes took the longest but I happened across some cardboard boxes while on a business trip for 25 cents each and grabbed four. The only wooden boxes they had were small but I also bought a medium sized paper covered wooden box that I might later make into a ukulele. For the neck I selected red oak but plan on adding a walnut fingerboard. My wife selected a...
In this part of the series, we’ll look at making and installing the back braces, making the back, and prepping the sides for the big glue-up. In this guitar, I put in four back braces. These braces were made from 7×15 mm strips of Spanish cedar ripped on a bandsaw. The braces were given a rounded profile on the side facing up when you look through the sound hole. After cutting the braces to length, the ends of each brace on the rounded side were chiseled flat. This would ...
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