Fine tuning the tail veneer & cutting dinky little mitres on the purflings. A nice piece of maple recycled from a shop fitting will do nicely for the fretboard. I Googled and then printed off a full size pattern for the frets. Attached it to the maple with d/s tape. and attached depth stops to a pull-saw of correct kerf width for frets I’m using… a rapidly knocked together ‘mitre’ box Result – happiness: I made a sanding block...
I hit my stride today, and knocked out quite a bit of work on this. I had an inspiration on the roundovers on the back of the neck. At the end of the previous installment, I had only run them with the back of the neck down on the router table. I realized if I turned it up on edge and ran the already-rounded edges through again, the ends would look a lot nicer, and would be more hand-friendly. The best view of this is in this shot of tuner installation. Note how the radius on each face fades s...
This part is mostly catch-up. I ruined my first neck, rounding over one of the front edges instead of the back. I made up another, this time out of maple. It looks very similar, with the same design for the head. To stop the roundovers at the right spot, I jigged up stops on the router table. I had to set these up twice, with a separate setup for each side. Here it is, along with my router table, which I made by lopping an old desk in two..Feeding from right…...To left...The completed h...
1st Acoustic Guitar Happy-Fun Time #4: Rosette Design, Joining the Soundboard, and Performax 22/44 Fun
I’m swamped with two other concurrent projects at the moment, but I have found time to contemplate a Design for the rosette, as well as play around a little with my new eBay bargain, the Performax 22/44 drum sander. Rosette Theory The idea of the rosette is derived less from artistic design opportunities, which it certainly is, but more by the structural need to reinforce the sound hole in such thin, soft woods like spruce, cedar, redwood, or whatever stock is normally chosen for ...
Hi again, this time I’ll show you the extra work I did with the neck: You can see in the pic the small cigar box I got for the cbg, a Romeo y Julieta brand, cedar plywood, it is almost too small for the scale I choose (25”) but I will use it anyway, time will tell if I need to replace it. Here I did another “first timer”, a pattern jig to cut a nice shape into the headstock, used double sided tape to attach the pattern to the headstock and routed away… and...
Hi everyone, finally I come back with a blog for a little project I been doing in my free time for the last 2 weeks. As it was bound to happen I think, having been a professional musician for nearly 20 years and now interested in woodworking as a hobby among some other things, finally bit the bullet and started building a CBG (cigar box guitar), and this is the short story, short because there really is not too much to tell as the build can be as simple or complicated as you want it to be....
To continue my venture into home made music, I used a rat tail file to make a recess at the end of the fretboard for the nut, which is, ironically, a bolt. The nut is not my term, but us the traditional name for the piece where the strings transition from the end of the fretboard and turn down to the tuning pegs. At this point, I glued the fretboard to the neck and set it aside to dry. While drying, I cut two soundholes into the body (cigar box) making sure they did not interfere with wh...
Postings will slow down somewhat now. This is what I did today. On the router table, trimmed off the overhang on the back of the guitar. Marking out and cutting out for the end-seam inlay strip: I’m using a piece of quilted mahogany / sapele that will match the headstock veneer: My purflings… (Good grief; look at the state of my thumbnail!) and bindings arrived today. Sorry, I didn’t make ‘em! Last thing I did was to super...
Take a long look at your sculpture Stewart; it’s the last you will see of it! Spread the Titebond. Not too much; we don’t want a mess inside there. In the Shaker tradition, even though we can’t see it, The Almighty can. The plywood caul is flexible enough to follow the curvature of the back or front.
It’s difficult to see what’s going on here. this is a plywood caul that’s screwed down to the mould as a clamp as I glue on the soundboard. It seems easier than the yards of elastic that’s often used for the same purpose. This way to Part Seven
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