LumberJocks

Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'groove'

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How to Use a Stanley 45 Combination Plane to Cut Grooves

81 days ago by WoodAndShop | 5 comments »

By Joshua Farnsworth (Writer at WoodAndShop.com) I shot the above Video at Roy Underhill’s Woodwright’s School (original blog post is here). Bill Anderson shows how to properly use a Stanley 45 Combination Plane to cut a simple groove for use in a dovetail box or many other uses. Bill shows the basic parts of the combination plane and how to adjust them. You’ll learn how to hold the Stanley 45 combination plane to get a consistent groove, and how to avoid misshaped grooves...

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View Mosquito's profile

Fun with a Stanley #45 - #2: Plowing a Groove

469 days ago by Mosquito | 34 comments »

Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I’d make the first video for this blog series. In this blog entry, I will be using my Stanley #45 plane to cut a groove along the face of a board. For the purpose of this example I am using a scrap piece of pine. I am using a 1/2” cutter, and have the depth stop set up for 3/8”, as well as the fence 3/8” away from the edge of the cutter.   I am using the second skate in addition to the main b...

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View twobyfour16's profile

Workbench #6: Skirts & Vises

693 days ago by twobyfour16 | 3 comments »

So, the top needed skirts, obviously, so time to laminate again. This time, I used 3 pieces of 1×8 black walnut. This gave me a skirt that is 2 1/4” thick, and 6 3/4” wide – after cleaning up the edges. I glued up enough blanks for the front skirt, two end skirts, and chops for both vises. I did not get very many pictures of this process, as I had plenty of lamination pics earlier….I will say that these skirts were BEEFY! And heavy. So, now I had to figure...

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View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Father - Daughter Project #5: bread boards are done

815 days ago by Mainiac Matt | 7 comments »

Decided to do the groove in the bread boards on the router table with a slot cutter bit And then to do the tounge on the end grain of the top with a rabbet bit. I often find the parallel set up bars used with the machinist vice on my bench top mill come in handy for set ups. They are 1/8” thick, so in this case two of them inserted in the groove with a feeler guage leaf was snug as a bug in a rug. This allowed me to match the rabbet bit height to groove bottom. the resu...

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View RS Woodworks's profile

My Ultimate Workbench Build #8: Side panels and rails...

1084 days ago by RS Woodworks | 7 comments »

Hey all! It’s been a bit since I posted my last progress on this workbench, but thats not to say I haven’t been working on it. Since the last time, I managed to do some more work on the legs to get them ready to accept the rails and panels for the sides of the bench. Remember those Douglas Fir posts that I posted I think in my first blog? Well I resawed a couple of those to use for the panels, really nice wood! The posts were thick enough to get 3 full 1” boards o...

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View GodofBiscuits's profile

Why dimensional lumber is wrong for woodworking

1157 days ago by GodofBiscuits | 16 comments »

The girlfriend and I have been getting into the gardening spirit lately and planting anything and everything that will grow here in the NorthWest. With not a lot of places to plant things I decided to move to the patio for options, some planter boxes along the edge would do nicely. I scoured Google and Youtube for ideas and was disappointed with the lack of quality box plans or videos but eventually found something along the lines of what we wanted and would not cost a fortune to build. After...

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View PurpLev's profile

MDB #4: The Age of the Machines - Final milling and profiling

1458 days ago by PurpLev | 14 comments »

Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here Once everything was glued up into a single slab, it was time to plane it flat and parallel. one of the strips I jointed happen (don’t ask me how…lol) to be jointed off square, throwing the last 4-5 strips in the glueup off flat (mostly flat). I was tired at this point, and just figured I’m not going to rejoint it, but will pay the price and plane it all down at the cost of having a...

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View Rob Drown's profile

Tool Chest #2: Fitting the lid

1585 days ago by Rob Drown | 0 comments »

Fitting the lid is taking a lot longer than I thought. I had to trim the sides to length freehand as I don’t have a miter box. The grooves on the sided required trimming and deepening. Deepening the grooves was with a mortising chisel as I don’t have a plow plane. These pictures how the groove in the frame fits into the groove in the panel and the halves of the mitered bridle joint go together to make the lid. The antique clamp was my Dad’s. Shows the groov...

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View Luke's profile

Knitting box #7: Box divider and bottom

1883 days ago by Luke | 2 comments »

So here I have the drawer pieces all laid out and routed the groove in the bottom of them for the slide in solid panel 1/8” maple that I am going to use. I was trying to decide on solid or ply and thought that it would look better with the solid plus I don’t have any maple ply and I have plenty of the maple solid. I had to make a trip to get the bit as my standard bit set didn’t have one that small (1/8”). I set up a couple of stops on my router table and cut the groov...

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View Eric's profile

Dovetail Box #13: Feedback Requested Before Lid Glue-Up

2305 days ago by Eric | 3 comments »

Okay, so I finished my panel grooves in my lid frame, and in the next day or two, I’ll glue up my lid. I’ll tell you what I’m planning to do, and could you let me know if anything sounds funky? Please refer to my previous post for some background, if needed. 1. I’ll run some glue down the grooves of two [adjacent] frame pieces, and on the two miters I’m connecting. Wait a few minutes for the end grain to soak up some of the glue, and then reapply some more on ...

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