Ok.. here goes We have a big addition to our house.. “the Green Room” Our house is kinda old (build in early 1920’)and the previous owners put a pool in (hoot) and then build a goofie kinda “sun Room” to get to the pooland they painted it a dark “forrest green” thus its name. The room is not “flush” with the existing front or back of the original house, it juts in a few feet on each side, about 4 or so in the back and about 8 in t...
Well, I found out what was wrong with my mortising set up – the drill bit inside the mortise chisel was bent and causing the chisel to jam. I tried another chisel that had never been used and it worked, so I went old-school. I started and ended the mortising with those whatchamacallits, chisels! Thats it! I marked out the mortises with a pencil, then went around the perimeter with a chisel. I only went deep enough to cut the surface fibers, maybe 1/16”+, and got a nice outli...
Here’s an update on the progress I’ve made on my nightstand. I completed the draw with the proud finger joints. After some e-mail back and forth with Darrell I’m holding off on the handle and will mount that after finishing. I completed the bottom shelf. I think this design is pretty interesting because from a distance the shelf seems to be attached to the lower rails of the table. However, the shelf floats on a support mounted to the bottom of the end rails with a ...
I mentioned in my first post how disapointed I was in the plans I purchased for the nightstand. Well, right away I recieved a PM from Darrell Pert, woodworker, author, and creater of the Aurora design. He offered help and sent photos that got me past a sticking point. This is a great community, and you never know who might be reading! To finish the assembly of the nightstand draw, I needed to make a sliding dovetail to attach the draw back to the draw sides. I really have been happy wi...
I wanted a small table with a draw to put next to my recliner and liked the looks of this table by Darrell Peart: Aurora Nightstand On the page you can see a link to plans for the table from American Furniture Design so I bought them. The plans contain an “E” sized drawing, and a 8 page booklet with parts list and instructions. These plans are the worst woodworking-related product I have ever purchased. The instructions had so many mistakes, math errors, mis-named parts, omi...
Well this project is taking WAY longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it. I finished installing all 90 some odd plugs and installed some Brusso ball catches to the tops of the doors. This was making me nervous as I have not used them before. I bought brad point bits from LV so I could drill them accurately. That took two weeks of waiting. They turned out nicely though and I really like the way they click into place. I made a decorative detail for the step dow...
Inprocess photos … two tiles to choose from. frame is 4/4 quartersawn white oak. dyed, stained and seedlac … still needs a little work. Which tile looks best in the frame ? Photos are taken in my shop, on my table saw, covered with a burlap furniture blanket, under a 48 inch fluorescent light. just because …. here is a set of experimental “elephant skin” tiles … 11 22 2008 Went with the darker one …. B
After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink. It was planned, but it doesn’t make it any easier. Once that hole is there, there is no going back. So for the next 3 hours, I put in the faucet. Hooked up the new Dish Washer. And put in the cabinet that will hold the trash containers. And what do you get. A plumbing nightmare. The drains from the two sinks are at a different height. and ar...
Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4” line around the inside. I cut the straight lines using the battery operated skill saw, and the corners with a jig saw. I used hot melt glue and put down wooden blocks so that the sink could be placed in the correct position and be able to placed in position fast. To take the blocks off you just whack them with a hammer (Sideways). I ...
I built the base cabinet where the sink would go. It’s the same size as the one that is being replaced with the exception that the existing cabinet didn’t go into the corner. It stopped just past the sink. I guess cost cutting on the previous owner. The sink is not normally mounted upside down in the bottom of the cabinet. I had it here to find the correct positioning to cut the hole in the counter top. This is sitting in the kitchen in front of the cabinet being replace...
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