I mentioned in my first post how disapointed I was in the plans I purchased for the nightstand. Well, right away I recieved a PM from Darrell Pert, woodworker, author, and creater of the Aurora design. He offered help and sent photos that got me past a sticking point. This is a great community, and you never know who might be reading! To finish the assembly of the nightstand draw, I needed to make a sliding dovetail to attach the draw back to the draw sides. I really have been happy wi...
I wanted a small table with a draw to put next to my recliner and liked the looks of this table by Darrell Peart: Aurora Nightstand On the page you can see a link to plans for the table from American Furniture Design so I bought them. The plans contain an “E” sized drawing, and a 8 page booklet with parts list and instructions. These plans are the worst woodworking-related product I have ever purchased. The instructions had so many mistakes, math errors, mis-named parts, omi...
Well this project is taking WAY longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it. I finished installing all 90 some odd plugs and installed some Brusso ball catches to the tops of the doors. This was making me nervous as I have not used them before. I bought brad point bits from LV so I could drill them accurately. That took two weeks of waiting. They turned out nicely though and I really like the way they click into place. I made a decorative detail for the step dow...
Inprocess photos … two tiles to choose from. frame is 4/4 quartersawn white oak. dyed, stained and seedlac … still needs a little work. Which tile looks best in the frame ? Photos are taken in my shop, on my table saw, covered with a burlap furniture blanket, under a 48 inch fluorescent light. just because …. here is a set of experimental “elephant skin” tiles … 11 22 2008 Went with the darker one …. B
After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink. It was planned, but it doesn’t make it any easier. Once that hole is there, there is no going back. So for the next 3 hours, I put in the faucet. Hooked up the new Dish Washer. And put in the cabinet that will hold the trash containers. And what do you get. A plumbing nightmare. The drains from the two sinks are at a different height. and ar...
Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4” line around the inside. I cut the straight lines using the battery operated skill saw, and the corners with a jig saw. I used hot melt glue and put down wooden blocks so that the sink could be placed in the correct position and be able to placed in position fast. To take the blocks off you just whack them with a hammer (Sideways). I ...
I built the base cabinet where the sink would go. It’s the same size as the one that is being replaced with the exception that the existing cabinet didn’t go into the corner. It stopped just past the sink. I guess cost cutting on the previous owner. The sink is not normally mounted upside down in the bottom of the cabinet. I had it here to find the correct positioning to cut the hole in the counter top. This is sitting in the kitchen in front of the cabinet being replace...
Before we get started, I stated in the previous blog that I’d let you see the cement tube that is used to bond the Corian pieces together. The glue tube with two separate compartments, One for the fill material and the second for the catalyst. The plunger is part of the adapter kit that allows it to be used in a regular caulking gun. Your option is this, or a $80.00 to $150.00 gun. I opted for the $4.00 part. The small plastic piece beside it is an adapter that allows it to be...
Well I’ve still been busy building additional cabinets. I’m working on the lower cabinets, because the upper cabinets need to match placement of the lower cabinets and I’m now working myself into a corner. That’s the sink corner. Old picture. It’s just to the right of the range. So what I’ve accomplished is building the cabinets to the left of the range. The range is being moved about 18” to the left so the cabinets that I’m building...
In process photos of oak frames and tiles I’m working on this weekend. 10 5 2008 The texture on the back of the scarab is made with ground glass impregnated into the wet clay and then fired to around 2000 degrees. finished scarab with bronzed finish. ...
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