I have been using this jig for gluing thin material for some time now: (i think the basic idea was taken from time life’s “art of woodworking”). The jig is basically piece of 19mm hardwood plywood with packing tape cover and 9mm pieces of plywood brad nailed at both ends. the wedges are tapped with a mallet to create the pressure. Lately, i decided to recycle my thin scrap into coasters, very much like tonyu’s. Unlike tonyu, i don’t have a lathe (I think...
Many woodworkers lack confidence in their glue joints. The way to overcome this is by getting to know your products and materials. This is accomplished by experimenting and testing – particularly through destructive testing. I continually test my off-cuts from every project. This provides a form of quality control testing that is specific to each project. In this video I show a couple of the methods that I use to test my glue joints. Testing your joints to the point of wood fa...
Time to glue up. Since I painstakingly fit each tenon to it’s matching mortise, I was fairly confident that glue-up would go ok. To solve the short clamp issue, I went down to the hardware store & got some couplers to hook pipes together to get more length out of my pipe clamps. Also, I borrowed some longer parallel clamps from a friend – and I’m glad he had them! I did a dry assembly & everything worked great. It was a little tricky to do by myself, but I g...
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It was finally time to close up the body of the guitar. Yet another fun clamping operation.Things went reasonably well. The stage is now set for routing the channels for the binding and purfling. Take a look at the post for details. Thanks for reading!
A few quick clamping and gluing tips…but in 3D! Yeah daddy!
In planning to glue to corners I cut some angle blocks to assist in holding the clamps in place. I also used a special clamp for angles that I highly recommend if you have to glue up unusual corners or large miter corners. I then tried to figure out how to cut the bottom and shelf. I decided to use my circular saw. Before having a table saw, I used a circular saw to cut the wood so I have a good blade for plywood. I also own a forrest blade but I didn’t use it for this, d...
I’m ready to add the bottom. As member GregD suggested I’m going to use Kreg pocket holes to secure the bottom and shelf in place. I cut some support boards at a height that would allow me to rest the bottom on them and then screw the bottom in place. I turned the work piece upside down to make it easier to screw it in place. Once the bottom was secured, I cut the support boards down to the height I needed for them to support the shelf. I then installed the shelf...
So, I’ve started the bed and its been going pretty good so far. I had all the stock that i had already bought (still need to find a few pieces and pick up the hardward, however its not Really needed until the end, so im not worried about it) resting in the shop for about 10 days which is good! The wood im using for the this project is Poplar, its easy enough to work with, it stains up beautifully, and was readily available and on the lower end of the price market. Onto the woodworkin...
The Non-Electric Chair #14: Making the Chair (The back frame gets glued up and the chair comes together)
There are some jobs that must be done as you go along; they will be very difficult to do once the back frame is glued up.Unfortunately, I am one of those people who must see results and can’t wait indefinitely to see a frame going together. Apart from the fact that I think someone said “A decision deferred is a decision well made” I have two excuses for this less than grown up behaviour.a) Sanding every square millimetre can be pointless if it turns out that there is a final curve or detai...
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