I am currently working on a Jewlery Box and had some questions. I will be making the box out of Sapele with a bookmatched Birdseye Mapel panel for the top which will be held in a dado/groove. The bottom panel will be Sapele and secured the same way. The corners will be mitered with Wenge keys to help strengthen the joints. My question is should I glue in the bottom and top panels? The top and bottom panels for the box will be about 1/4 inch. I know that when making cabinet doors in the past I...
Time to glue up. Since I painstakingly fit each tenon to it’s matching mortise, I was fairly confident that glue-up would go ok. To solve the short clamp issue, I went down to the hardware store & got some couplers to hook pipes together to get more length out of my pipe clamps. Also, I borrowed some longer parallel clamps from a friend – and I’m glad he had them! I did a dry assembly & everything worked great. It was a little tricky to do by myself, but I g...
So, I’ve started the bed and its been going pretty good so far. I had all the stock that i had already bought (still need to find a few pieces and pick up the hardward, however its not Really needed until the end, so im not worried about it) resting in the shop for about 10 days which is good! The wood im using for the this project is Poplar, its easy enough to work with, it stains up beautifully, and was readily available and on the lower end of the price market. Onto the woodworkin...
I last left off where my boards for the top where seriously warped. I also was waiting for my new jointer. I received my new Powermatic Jointer and I love it. I wish I knew how to use it better but it will come in time. Jointing ProblemOne question I wondered about it when I tried to flatten a board. I jointed just one side of the board until it was flat. The only problem was to get the board flat the jointer removed so much wood that I wasn’t able to use the board because it became to...
I’m ready to add the bottom. As member GregD suggested I’m going to use Kreg pocket holes to secure the bottom and shelf in place. I cut some support boards at a height that would allow me to rest the bottom on them and then screw the bottom in place. I turned the work piece upside down to make it easier to screw it in place. Once the bottom was secured, I cut the support boards down to the height I needed for them to support the shelf. I then installed the shelf...
In planning to glue to corners I cut some angle blocks to assist in holding the clamps in place. I also used a special clamp for angles that I highly recommend if you have to glue up unusual corners or large miter corners. I then tried to figure out how to cut the bottom and shelf. I decided to use my circular saw. Before having a table saw, I used a circular saw to cut the wood so I have a good blade for plywood. I also own a forrest blade but I didn’t use it for this, d...
We are now ready to begin sawing out our components. By hot gluing the two boards together this allows us to cut two identical pieces of each part so that they will fit properly. Note that I am only sawing out the interior shapes of the cross at this point. This will allow me to have better control when re-gluing. Here the vertical piece has been cut out. Keep in mind that you must get the best cut possible. Be sure your blade is narrow enough that it can saw the curves without backing up ...
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A few quick clamping and gluing tips…but in 3D! Yeah daddy!
There are three curved parts in each stool. These are formed by gluing up thin strips to create a thicker laminated part. The three parts are: 1. Seat Back – 7/8” thick (formed with 5 or 6 strips)2. Back Rest – 7/8” thick (formed with 5 or 6 strips)3. Slats – 3/8” thick (formed with 3 or 4 strips) (5 per stool) As I plan the construction, I start to realize that I have 6 stools with 7 curved parts each. That works out to 42 glue ups. Each one requires...
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