After some discussion on diagonal bracing, I decided to go with 3/4 inch diagonals that fit flush with the rails behind the back of the panels. The diagonals were to be put in compression. After another trip to the lumberyard and dimensioning with the planer, jonter and table saw. Built some “jackstands” to get the gate to a better working height. Laying out the geometry. Cutting on miter saw. Cut rabbets with the router. Chamfer with rout...
I decided to go with pre-milled tongue and groove slats from the lumberyard. They came in 10ft lengths so they were cut to length on the miter saw. The backs were really rough so I ran them through the planer. The channels were a little small so I thinned the edges of the slats where they fit into the channels with a block plane. I tried to match the color and grains as closely as possible to each other.
Last time was the mortises and now the tenons. I had a pretty rough time getting these cut. The biggest issue was getting the shoulders straight all the way around. The first technique was with a router and a jig. For the flat. For the edge. Having never worked with such large joints, this turned out to be incredibly tedious and I couldn’t get the shoulders to line up. I tried table saw, hand saw…. wasn’t working. So, needed a new tool. Enter Stan...
Now that everything is laid out flat and square, the mortises need to be cut. I used to have a desktop version of the mortiser. The full size powermatic makes the job much easier. Final cleanup with the hammer and chisel. Next time tenons. Here’s a little teaser.
I’m gonna focus a bit on how I made the arc as it is a little more complicated than the rest of the process. To get the arc to the right proportion, I needed to laminate two pieces of wood. Here, I am laying out where the arc will fit using my template. I’m used biscuits for alignment and to hopefully protect against de-lamination. It’s important to lay out where the biscuits are so that they don’t show when the arc is cut. Biscuits are cut. ...
The crucial step of dimensioning the stock was a physical and tedious process. I’m in decent shape, but wasn’t expecting such a workout. Each piece needed to be planed to 2-1/8” thickness and be perfectly square so that the joints line up. Quite a task on long heavy pieces. After the laminating was finished, the stock was made flat and square. The length of the wood made it a challenge for my 6 inch Jointer. Planer and dust collector got quite a workout....
So, the old ugly driveway gave in after some strong winds. I’ve been planning on replacing it with something nice for about five years. I guess the time is now. I drew up some design ideas in Sketchup and my wife and I agreed on a design. I took a lot of inspiration from English driveway gates. It will be built of knotty cedar to maintain a rustic look, keeping in line with the house. The space below the arch will be some custom welded iron work (my father-in-law is quite t...
I needed a gate for our front porch. I show you how to build a cheap, but durable gate and also show the CORRECT way to install the cross brace. Please Subscribe and check out other videos!
So, I recently built a new cedar gate & needed some handles. I didn’t want to go out & buy some, so decided to make my own. Inspired by “http://lumberjocks.com/projects/48854” CaptainAhab’s handles, I ended up with:Here’s how I built them:Starting with a lamination of 3 pieces of clear Cedar which I planed down to about 2 1/8” thick:Obviously, I made a little template for the top curves out of 1/4” plywood & cut the top curve with the ban...
Hello Readers! Well my daughter is 6 months old now, and she found the staircase this week…(no worries, we stopped her advancement up them) So I will be building a set of upper and lower staircase gates for her protection against nasty spills. I put together this mockup for the design. As usual this will be made from pallet wood and will be featured on my Pallet Craft blog. But alas! I acquired a block plane! And I am very happy with how it changes the way the wood looks...
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