This is what it looks like all put together. Still have to do a bit of flattening to the top side. It started out almost perfectly flat. But a couple three boards had warped so there were a couple of low spots. I’ve removed about 1/4” so far, leaving only two spots untouched by the planer – one about three or four square inches and another just a bit bigger. I’ve been taking several 45° angle passes across the entire surface.
Well after many hours in my cold shop and a couple of trips to my neighbor’s cabinet shop, the table top is ready for finishing. I have to thank my neighbor, who owns a home remodeling company, for offering me the use of his cabinet shop. It saved me probably two full days of flattening the top First, I glued up the top and then took it back to the cabinet shop to flatten and sand down to 150 on their massive 54” wide-belt sander. They also cut it to length for me on their A...
A question was asked in part 1 of this series on how to flatten the top… I started replying in the comment thread, but decided to just make it part 2. I’m investigating building a dining table myself. What is involved in “flattening” the table top? Any special tools or large equipment required? I ve seen people use parallel rails and a router sled for rounds and slabs, I suppose that might work? As with most woodworking tasks, there are multiple ways to accomplish...
So I traded a .270 weatherby and 300$ for an old rockwell unisaw that was just refurbished by its previous owner. I got it dialed in when I discovered the top was warped when I went to cut some tenons to test it out. Needless to say, this was a big problem. A machine shop wanted 400$ to surface grind .010 off, but even then the heat could still warp it. There were also no shop with a Blanchard grinder from laffayette to houma to New Orleans with the capacity to do it, that were willing...
So I’ve decided to use 2 pipe clamps for the face vise, and a veneer press screw for the wagon vise. FACE VISE: EARLIER IN THE BUILD, I drilled two holes all the way through the bench from front to back, and durring the glue-up, left spaces for the movable parts of the pipe clamps to be inserted. In use, I can make large movements in the vise by releasing the clamps from the top. Those spaces can fill with shavings, but I can pull them out with my fingers, and if need be, easily pu...
Why Sole Flatness?Convex (bulging out) and concave (hollowed out) soles will cause uneven cut depths and skipping and chattering. For a convex shape, the plane rocks front to back and/or side to side. A concave shape will cause heavier cuts at the start and end of a surface, and possibly no cut in the middle. Different amounts of downward hand pressure can affect each stroke causing more confusion. Even with a very flat sole varying downward pressure will affect the cut. Reduce the variables ...
Finally got the bench to the point where it’s time to flatten the top and finish it. Going into the project almost a year ago, I made a promise to myself that I would flatten the top by hand. I’ve seen the fancy router sled used by the Woodwhisperer (among others), but that’s not how I wanted to go (besides the fact that I don’t want to put down $50 on a wide-pass router bit). The top wasn’t too far out of flat, globally. However, there were lots of...
Quick tips with The Woodworking Coach #2: Flattening a board with the help of hot glue and laminate shims
Here’s my take on a common challenge, how to flatten a wide board when you don’t have a wide jointer. I acknowledge up front that this is not including methods of flattening with hand tools, but rather, a practical method for the woodworker who owns a planer but not a jointer. The Woodworking Coach Ep.2 - Flattening a wide board with hot glue and laminate shims from Chidwick School on Vimeo.
For the picture heavy version, please click here! Today was all about the grind. Just grit your teeth and push through the burning in your arms and hands. To get going, though I had just had to settle my differences with the onery plane (it caused me to stop prematurely yesterday). I took my time and examined the thing to see what was amiss, because it wasn’t acting like this when I was planing the individual planks for the top a few weeks ago. Then I noticed it—-the frog...
Like many other people putting together a shop and trying to work with wood, I wanted a good bench. I have a nice “machine” bench made of 3 laminated layers of 3/4” birch plywood 8’ long on two tiers of metal drawers with a nice 6” machinist vise, but I needed to build a woodworking bench, as it would be useful and building it would be an excellent experience (how little I knew!) So after reading innumerable articles, I decided I would build the Holtzapffel b...
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