Hey everyone, It was suggested that I start a discussion on how to find and harvest burls. Please give your input also. I don’t deal with straight grain that often. I cut and sell burls for a living so here is what I know. It is illegal to harvest a burl without permission. of course if it is on your own property you can give yourself permission. What I do is put an ad on Craig’s list saying I want your burls. Most people don’t know what burls are. So you don’t get that many calls....
Updated 1/15/12 How to make an Art Box by Andy Campbell Safety Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don’t wish to test your...
Some things that I've learned about finishing. Some of them I also use. #2: Home made wood fillers, Pumice and Rottenstone.
Pumice and Rottenstone as wood filler. When you go through the catalogs and look at all of the finished that are available, you will not see this tip. They sell you Pumice and Rottenstone to be used as a buffing and polishing agent to bring up a gloss on the surface, but no one tells you about using it as wood filler. The interesting thing about Pumice is it is basically transparent so if you use it as wood filler it doesn’t contribute any different colors to the wood that it’s being us...
Updated 1/15/12 The “Art Box” concept came about when I was looking for a way to use small pieces of some figured Myrtlewood I had leftover, not large enough for a box, but not something I could not throw away either. I decided to feature it in the lid of a box, like a picture in a frame. Keep that picture frame in mind when selecting the small piece for the medallion. You might select that picture piece first and then find a less figured wood to use for the lid and body, one that sets it...
This is my version of a mineral oil and beeswax “finish”. I have experimented with different ratio’s of the two ingredients. I have tried (measure in ounces by volume) 1 oz mineral oil : 1 oz beeswax3 oz mineral oil : 2 oz beeswax5 oz mineral oil : 1 oz beeswax I found that I like 3:2 ratio the best. I buy the beeswax in cake form. Shave it with a grater. Place the shavings in a bowl and then into a double boiler. The beeswax will melt VERY fast. Add the mineral oil and stir fo...
Updated 1/15/12 At this point we have a box body with corner splines.Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE! For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we d...
Updated 1/15/12 We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue. This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very s...
What are the differences between the three oils? Mineral oil is the cheapest. Tung and walnut are priced about the same and both can cause alergic reactions to those that are alergic to nuts. So, I ask, what are the finishing differences. Is one better then the other (other then the cost)? Or does it just get down to a personal preference? As advertised, walnut oil will provide a hardened surface after being exposed to UVs. Mineral oil will need additional coats as it drys out. Tung o...
Updated 1/16/12 This is the fun part! Its scary too! The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know. Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. But slow down Hot...
Ladies and Gentlemen, Does anyone have tips on maintaining the beautiful purple color of the purpleheart wood after sanding and then finishing? It seems that when I begin the sanding, the purple color fades into a washed out flat reddish color. Also, what is the best way to finish purpleheart and enhance the purple coloration? Thanks much – Perplexed Jeff in Ohio
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1633 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1659 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 279 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 228 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 198 entries
- robscastle - 188 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 188 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- Chris Davis - 184 entries