I’ve decided to finish this in two stages. I still have to figure out the legs/support for the bench but felt there was value in getting a protective coat of finish on the piece. With the redwood being fairly soft, and this piece being so heavy I could already see imperfections being introduced just from moving this around during the sanding process. Also sand; sand everywhere. Given that this spent part of it’s life as driftwood, many of the nooks and crannies are filled wit...
I usually just finish the chess pieces one at a time. I wanted to be able to get a good smooth finish on them like you do on the lathe but still be able to turn another piece without having to wait for them to dry in between coats.This is what I came up with. I drilled a 1/4” hole into 3/4” dowel and inserted a 1/4” dowel to chuck in the drill. I drilled a 3/4” hole in the holder and used a round file to ream it out so there is enough play to let it spin freely. After ...
Picked up some Minwax (water based stain) at my local box store. I’m used to oil based as I have a lot of it. Can’t remember if I did it intentionally LOL! Have used it when I did my refurbishing of my office sofa. That was over a 4 ought steel wool rub down of the sofa frame pieces. Working on my last two furniture pieces I’m refurbishing for the office. Will post the pieces per requests from fellow LJ’s Keeping this topic narrowed to the stain, I’m w...
The last video in this series shows how I apply the gel stain and a durable polyurethane finish.Hardware is installed and the project is complete! http://youtu.be/XQT0heWI1lU
"adirondack chair making" #1: my first adirondack chair was made in 1995, now two decades later, I am still at it
when I was a freshman in high school (1995), I won the end of the year award for woodshop when I produced an Adirondack Chair. Now 2014, I am still at it. I only get better and better at them. Now I am giving them some Texas, southwestern, rustic flare with a cut-out the shape of the state. I now make Adirondack chairs on a weekly basis mostly for therapy. But I sell them too. In post(s) to follow I will explain more about Adirondack chair making.
The glue-ups were trimmed a bit to fit the space above the base cabinets. The walls around the cabs don’t meet at right angles though, so the right glue-up had to be cut accordingly. What is left before finishing is sanding with an ROS, grits 100 through 400. I also want to treat the edge with either a 1/8” round over, or a 1/8” bevel bits. Have to try on a scrap piece first to see which works better. Have yet to find one joint connector to bridge the left and r...
Out in the shop today working on my desk chair which is a found item from a resale shop many years ago. Thought it had some character. It’s been sitting gathering dust and cat hair for a few years now. Just decided to refurbish it for my reopened office. Thought it was mahogany but it turns out it is 1/3rd mahogany. I was going to rub down the finish with four ought (o#0000) steel wool and put a coat of stain and poly on it. When I go started it needed to be taken apart as most...
I did not have time to post progress yesterday, but today I finished the humidor test build. My wife has absconded with it to hold her art supplies in, so it will not be getting a hygrometer. Before Hinges and before gluing the liner in Remaining pics show the completed project Top Bottom
I’ve had the pleasure of watching fellow LJ’er William learn the art and techniques of turning. He has produced some amazing pens, that someday I can only hope to emulate. Upon seeing his early pens, I had a thought of a pen without a center band. Sure enough, he posted one and has made several since then. To see his turnings & pens, one must read thru his As The Lathe Turns blog... You see, I’m not a fan of the skinny center band with two bulging “ellipses...
I have sanded one of the halves of the top; the squeeze out cleans up very easily without softening or gumming up the sander. As far as finishing goes, I have been thinking about Watelox Original as suggested in numerous posts on walnut tops here on LJ. Mineral oil/beeswax mixture is not an option for sure. Waterlox is durable and forms moisture-, stain- and heat-resistant film; scratches can be repaired easily by applying locally a new layer of the finish. Walnut is an extremely porous...
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