I decided to go with spar urethane (Helmsman satin by Minwax) as the protective finish. I read some reviews and thought I’d give it a try. I like the way it applies better than the regular polyurethane I used on the x-box 360 entertainment unit. Hard to explain why it feels different but it just seems to go on easier. Maybe it’s thinner? It also seems to raise the grain a bit less so maybe I will need less sanding. Somebody said it isn’t better at water resistance, but i...
Hi everyone. I was trying to figure out a way to store some of my fasteners and small parts which lead me to construct this. Take some Dollar Store baking pans, some scrap wood, and a little routing, sanding & painting and problem solved. I then use my label maker to identify what is in each pan. I’m still sorting things out, but so far it’s worked great. You can take the one you need to your work area and bring it back when you’re done. I don’t think it...
After a few questions about my homemade wax and finishing, i share now the recipe wich works very well for me. 200g beewax ( it´s a little less than a half pound)200g paraffine200g carnauba1 l turpentine ( thats about a little moore than 1 quart)asphalt paint, pigments ( for dyeing ) First melt all 3 wax sorts in a water bath. Be carefull that it will not get to hot and burn and you will have crumbsin your finish. Stir everything very well.l Take it from the stove and let it cool down...
This feels like real progress! By the end of this blog, you’ll be able to see that this clock is actually coming together. When I stopped last time, I was waiting for the BLO to dry on the front frame. It dried. Now I need to apply shellac. I decided on clear to let the cherry darken and age on it own. Maybe on their 50th wedding anniversary the couple will pull out some old pictures and see how the tone has mellowed, just like them. Here’s a shot of the shellac being appli...
I have a fully joined carcase with partitions for five drawers, but it’s only got two sides, a top and a bottom. ie: it needs a backside! Options I’ve thought about include a series of half-lap boards nailed into a rabbet at all four edges, and a floating frame and panel. Because one of these is necessarily more difficult to do than the other, you can likely guess which one I’ve chosen… I started work with material selection. For the frame I’ve used a pretty non-descript (re: crappy) piece...
Spoiler alert: Its done! Got the piece all clamped up and brought it in during a chilly stretch of weather Bottom of the piece after a nice soak in med walnut Danish oil and a few coats of wipe on poly Teensy bit of a gap, but it closes up depending on temp/humidity. The oak looks kind of trashy in this pic compared to the pretty walnut :) Another shot of the bottom, but a different direction. Notice rays appear much darker.. From the top All finished, but the lens on my pho...
Hey guy’s and gals. I’m starting to rough mill the oak for my flooring I’m putting down in my house. My question is I would like your opinion about how to go abought and to finish it. If it would be better to finish it before I cut the toung and groove. Or after. I’m concerned about the finish getting on the toung and groove, causing them not to fit as good as they should. Any suggestions would be very heplful. Thanks Tim:
Will I ever get tired of seeing how walnut seems to come to life when it is finished with oil and spray shellac? I doubt it. Walnut is just one of my all time favorite woods. I think that I could make just about anything using walnut and as long as I take the time to finish it properly, it will look impressive. I cut another candle tray out yesterday. The wood I used was (you guessed it!) walnut! This time I made a moose scene and it seemed to me that walnut was really the only choice ...
I’ve got a carcase that needs to be divided into sections to house five drawers for hand tools at the Roubo. As is usually the case with my shop work, there are more efficient ways to put drawers in cabinets than the methods I’ve chosen. Part of the answer to that is this Cabinet will be matched up to a bench that, as a pair of shop tools, will be productive way beyond my time with both of them. The balance falls into the mantra ‘practice with a purpose.’ I build things for the shop using too...
Last year I wrote a review here on LJ about my visit with Andrew Crawford in England. Andrew has made some of the finest boxes ever produced, and has turned some of his efforts to sharing his knowledge and methods with others. My three days with him last year were so productive and helpful that I decided to spend some more time with him this spring at his shop in Shropshire. Andrew’s shop is located in a nineteenth century converted barn on the historic Acton Scott farms site (sort o...
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