The glue-ups were trimmed a bit to fit the space above the base cabinets. The walls around the cabs don’t meet at right angles though, so the right glue-up had to be cut accordingly. What is left before finishing is sanding with an ROS, grits 100 through 400. I also want to treat the edge with either a 1/8” round over, or a 1/8” bevel bits. Have to try on a scrap piece first to see which works better. Have yet to find one joint connector to bridge the left and r...
Out in the shop today working on my desk chair which is a found item from a resale shop many years ago. Thought it had some character. It’s been sitting gathering dust and cat hair for a few years now. Just decided to refurbish it for my reopened office. Thought it was mahogany but it turns out it is 1/3rd mahogany. I was going to rub down the finish with four ought (o#0000) steel wool and put a coat of stain and poly on it. When I go started it needed to be taken apart as most...
I did not have time to post progress yesterday, but today I finished the humidor test build. My wife has absconded with it to hold her art supplies in, so it will not be getting a hygrometer. Before Hinges and before gluing the liner in Remaining pics show the completed project Top Bottom
I’ve had the pleasure of watching fellow LJ’er William learn the art and techniques of turning. He has produced some amazing pens, that someday I can only hope to emulate. Upon seeing his early pens, I had a thought of a pen without a center band. Sure enough, he posted one and has made several since then. To see his turnings & pens, one must read thru his As The Lathe Turns blog... You see, I’m not a fan of the skinny center band with two bulging “ellipses...
I have sanded one of the halves of the top; the squeeze out cleans up very easily without softening or gumming up the sander. As far as finishing goes, I have been thinking about Watelox Original as suggested in numerous posts on walnut tops here on LJ. Mineral oil/beeswax mixture is not an option for sure. Waterlox is durable and forms moisture-, stain- and heat-resistant film; scratches can be repaired easily by applying locally a new layer of the finish. Walnut is an extremely porous...
A couple of LJs have done this already, but they all used a lathe. The only part of a shop made screwdriver handle that needs to be round is the “tenon” in order to fit a proper ferrule. I had the notion that a tapered plug cutter could be used, and I was right. With that obstacle conquered, and a batch of screwdriver shanks from Lee Valley Tools, I went about making my custom screwdrivers. There are pictures of each step, so that should help. I made several extra handles and t...
Starting to look like something now. Still needs a little more sanding and a nice finish before parting the top from the bottom. I had intended to do a fully functional humidor for this test, but I went to Woodcrafters today and found out that Spanish Cedar has skyrocketed, so since this is a test, I will probably make the liner out of some inexpensive wood and just make this a box. The wood is hemlock, and is very cheap, but I chose it because I liked the nice tight straight grain. It ...
About a year ago I moved onto 5 acres full of nice size fir and cedar trees a lot of trees. We cut down about a half acre for garden and chicken space. From the trees we cut down we got 5000 board feet of one inch and two inch fir timbers (mostly 10inch wide by 10 to 20ft long) and a tonne of one inch cedar planking (averaging about 14inches wide). That’s a lot of wood for one lowly carpenter but I think I will manage. Well first things first. Dig a garden and get the chickens out of...
After looking through some other blogs here on LJ and watching some Youtube videos I thought that the tumbling block cutting board was something that looked challenging, cool and something I wanted to try. I learned some good ideas from these other blogs and wanted to share some of my experiences having now made three of these, my setbacks and discoveries to better produce these tumbling block patterns. I purchased a Wixey digital angle gauge as it looked like you really needed to be accu...
This cabinet is made from leftover red oak, Luan, birch plywood and plexiglass that I had in my shop. It is approximately 17”T x 7 1/2”W x 6” deep. I would have liked to make it a little taller to handle a couple more shelves and slightly deeper to have been able to recess the back panel. The Box I first sent the oak through the joiner to ensure I had 1 flat square edge. I then cut the board to the proper widths on my table saw then to final lengths on the Miter...
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