I finally got all the cracks and rotten spots fixed on my customer’s table top. I had to buy about $80 worth of resin to fix it. this wood was so porous and crumbly that tape would not stick to it. it seemed to just suck down resin like it was a sponge. This is a before picture some of the cracks and cavities were so big i could fit my fingers in them some photos after I filled in the cracks and sanded it to level the lumps out. I will give it a final pour of resin once the un...
I just got thru making a Guitar stand and after sanding I would like to get all of the dust off of it. I don’t want all the fine dust to ruin the finish and I heard that either Acetone or Mineral Spirits can be used to wipe down the project with a rag. Has anyone used this method or know if this is a good process.
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Here ya go guys and gals as requested. I am going to give my best representation of “MY” way that I do the casting process. First of all I start with a dry piece of wood (no more than 13% moisture) that I have stabilized in “Cactus Juice” www.turntex.com this hardens and stabilizes the punky or soft parts of the wood that you will mostly find in burls and spalted wood. After I stabilize it i take my ROTOZIP tool and use it to basically clean up the voids and cracks tha...
Wood prep before finishing The secret to perfect finish is proper sanding of your project. All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils. Prep sanding is done with progressively finer grits. On unfinished wood, prepare the surface by using medium grit paper first, and then progress to finer grades. With most raw woods, if you are hand sanding, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #100-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. You can make ...
Today I cut the mortises for the hinges on the doors and installed them. I used magnetic latches from Lowes on the doors. Once I was satisfied with the fit and operation of the doors, I stained them by repeating the steps I used on the rest of the table. I am pretty pleased with the match, especially being Maple. During drying times I completed the second leaded glass panel. ....and finally the finished cabinet. u
With the table assembled I was ready for finishing….or I thought I was. I wanted the finish to match the end tables in our living room, which have a cherry finish. After reading about the difficulties in staining Maple without making it a splotchy mess, I asked for and received some advice from folks here on LJ. Thanks to all! Here is the unfinished table…. I was advised to leave it natural but it would not have matched the other furniture. So the first thing I did was to app...
This is my half size prototype made entirely out of pallet wood (besides hardware).Finish is home made chalk paint with a wax finish (shabby chic) – the finish doesn’t photo very well but I am very happy with it, it came out the best I have been able to achieve so far. This size is perfect for DVDs etc. (I did a more thorough write up but the text disappear after I uploaded the pictures for some reason).
In this video we cover fitting the mud guards and cover hooks, grinding the bolts holding the side panels and mud Guards in place down, Note: the cabling has now been enclosed with conduit. You can view a short and detailed video here
We’ll the file cabinet is finally finished. I applied 3 coats of Arm R Seal satin with a new T-shirt. This is the first time I’ve worked with this product, and I really like it. It is much thinner than Minwax, and goes on very easy and was pretty forgiving. I let it dry at least 6 hours between coats, and scuffed it with 0000 steel wool after the second coat. The final coat went on silky smooth with no real dust specs that I can find. I like the satin finish, and will use it...
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