Since the ammonia fume diffused through the finishes so easily, I started to wonder how far it penetrated the wood. I had assumed the fume darkening would be a thing film, so I planed one of the edges to see how far it would go. I planed and planed, and found out that the fume had penetrated 1-2 mm through the face grain, and up to 10 mm on the end grain. You can see this in the planed edge shown above. The fumed finish on oak can easily stand up to extensive sanding. As always, please t...
After noticing that the inside of my box picked up some color right through the Danish oil finish, I decided to experiment. I finished an oak stick with one coat of polyurethane varnish (right) and Danish oil (left). I left the center unfinished. The oak darkened nicely beneath the finishes. The Danish oil appears a bit darker than the varnish, but the image exaggerates this somewhat. Nice to know that you can sand and put at least one coat of finish on before fuming. I’d test it ...
Many times as furniture makers, we will put a finish on the underside of a tabletop to prevent it from warping or cupping. The theory being, if you put the same finish on the top as you do the bottom the moisture transfer will be equalized on all sides, helping to prevent wood movement. Regardless whether or not this theory is true, there are other reasons to finish the bottom of your tabletop.Continue reading on my blog to see the real reason why I finish the bottom of my tables.
Two days after I took it out of the “gas chamber” the swelling due to moisture had gone down enough that I could remove the lid. I was a little surprised that the interior had darkened as much as the outside, but I guess I shouldn’t have been. The lid was certainly not airtight. What did surprise me was that I had put a coat of Danish oil on the inside prior to assembly, and the ammonia had darkened the wood right through this small amount of finish. It just shows ho...
Its time to get back to work. Need to get some items ready for the holiday season. I just started carving more signs and have several formats to offer. Also working on some Xmas ornaments and jewelry boxes. I will post pictures of the items that have been ordered at this time as they are finished. I you have anything you would like worked on please send me a message.
This is the box after two more days exposure, for six days total. It isn’t much darker than it was after four days, so I’m going to call the experiment over. I’d like for it to be a bit darker, but at least I got the contrast I wanted with the basswood lid and pins. Even the basswood took on a bit warmer shade. This is why I put the lid in to fume with the sides. I thought that the pins might darken, and I wanted them to match the lid. Here is the box before fuming:One...
The box hasn’t darkened appreciably over the past two days, so I put in fresh ammonia in a slightly bigger saucer to give it more surface area. Here’s a funny thing. It felt like the box was damp to the touch. The lid just lies in a rabbet in the sides, and the wood had swollen so much that it was jammed in tight! It really has been picking up moisture. I don’t know if this is due to the fuming reaction, or if it is just a consequence of having the box suspended ove...
Prestige design: CHECK OUT OUR FACEBOOK AND SHOW SOME Support… www.facebook.com/prestigedesign I always get a question before someone puts an order in “Can you really design what is in my mind?” My answer is YES. Then i prove it….I ask them key questions to help me understand what they want. Am i always right….NObut if i am not correct on what they want, they change their mind to the design i made The next question before i build it “how did ...
I have some small boxes with oak sides that I made, and I wanted to fume them to contrast with the basswood lids and pins. I placed a box over a saucer with some regular household ammonia. I keep a cake container over the setup to contain the fumes.The box before fuming.Here is the setup and the box after one day. Here it is after 48 hours. I’ll keep going until it reaches the desired shade.
Woodworking Supplies and Resources near Osan AB, ROK I’m putting this post together for any other military or DOD woodworkers that end up getting stationed out here at Osan AB in South Korea so they have some idea of what’s out there (and not) for them.First, there is NO woodshop on Osan. The closest locations are Yongsan (1.5hr drive) and Kunsan (3.0hr+ drive). They are shutting down Yongsan and will be eventually moving the woodworking shop to Camp Humphreys, but the timeline right now i...
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