I moved on and finished the box. I cleaned up the joints, sanded and added a little filler. The lid is some kind of hardwood and I really wanted to see it finished. These are before and after sanding shots on the lid. I conditioned the wood, stained and added several coats of lacquer.
This feels like real progress! By the end of this blog, you’ll be able to see that this clock is actually coming together. When I stopped last time, I was waiting for the BLO to dry on the front frame. It dried. Now I need to apply shellac. I decided on clear to let the cherry darken and age on it own. Maybe on their 50th wedding anniversary the couple will pull out some old pictures and see how the tone has mellowed, just like them. Here’s a shot of the shellac being appli...
So the brief was that they wanted a place to store all the paper work in the house. Passports, house insurance, car related stuff and all the other paper trails that we must keep hold off.I’ve checked out the room that they want the piece to go into, and they have a rather ugly looking Mahogany table with the computer on it, they have asked if I would try and match this piece. I’ve looked over it so many times and still the piece says to me “Ugly”. So I’m going t...
I have at least 8 coats of wipe on poly on this Log coffee table and it has some light streaks and or some light dust in the finish. It has cured about a week & I want to use some fine buffing compound to make it look better. I have some #3 compound for car finish that wont scratch & then plan to wax after that. I remember some say to wait for a month but I don,t want to wait that long, but don’t want to ruin the finish either. Can any of My fine friends here dig into your wareh...
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In my last blog, I created the tray bottom. In this blog, I will cut the grooves for the tray bottom, rout finger holds and put the tray together. First step is to cut grooves in the tail section. I use the MCLS 13/64” plywood bit (because 1/4” plywood is smaller than it’s nominal size). As a rule of thumb, I like to cut the groove 2x the groove width (so 1/2” in this case) from the bottom in order to leave enough material for a strong assembly. I mark t...
Got an old book of DIY woodworking plans, from a used book store. First thing I flipped to was a wine rack—coincidentally, something we’ve talked about buying for our kitchen/living room. This one called out white oak, with darker walnut plugs (to conceal exposed dowel holes, and used to provide a decorative contrast). I got a chance to pick up two new hole saws, a doweling jig (neat!), my first Forstner bit, a couple of strap clamps, and a bunch of beautiful wood. Not...
Something to be aware of when turning Bowls:- When you sharpen your Bowl Gouge you may get a tiny “Burr” on the heal of the bevel that then results in scratches in your piece at the point of transition between the wall & the base on the inside. It’s always worth checking for a burr on the heal, and if you find one, just remove it with a fine file and then a bit of fine sandpaper, just to make sure the heal is smooth.
Another piece of scrap has befallen my assorted blades, and has now become the slats for the bench. It was a large hunk of Doug Fir or Pine. It was originally going to be a large slab bench, but I decided it would be too large & unwieldy. It was 3” x 12” x 8’ – warped, twisted, split, cupped, weather-worn and worm-eaten; beautiful!Now it’s 6 slats 2 1/4” w x 1 1/2” h x 52” long. The previously mentioned character charms still exist, just...
So after making a large workshop upper cabinet, and then a glass door cabinet, I decided to start making more cabinets to store garden tools in the garage. While I’m at it, I decided to make two, one for long handled tools, and another with shelves for smaller stuff. I made the previous cabinets with maple, and it seems like a waste of money to make a garden tool cabinet out of relatively expensive wood, but hey, if I’m going to all the trouble, it might as well look good. I al...
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