I thought “What if I coated the whole ring in cyanoacrylate finish?” ...and I tried it. The rings have since been through regular everyday wear including dishwashings, handwashings and showers. END RESULT: This finish is holding up better than both Waterlox and Arm-R-Seal. And, in my opinion, it actually looks better. CAVEATS: Obviously, this would be difficult to do on anything but very small woodworking projects. It’s just right for these wooden rings, but ...
Why Some "Pine" May Not Be The Right Wood For Some Outdoor Furniture In Some Areas, Some of the Time
I have a great friend that is learning to do woodworking. He has been working hard at it the past 5 years, or so, and building some adult Adirondack Chairs was his first entry into making his own project. I suggested a curved seat, and a curved back for comfort (I had spent about 18 months perfecting my own Adirondack chair design, before I gave up), but he wanted to make them simpler. He found a plan on the internet, and went to work. They started out as gifts, and then he decided to s...
One of the most mysterious things about Danish modern furniture to me when I started making it was this strange soap finish that is talked about so often. I wondered, “What is this all about”? Well, the easy answer is that it is a soap that is simple washed onto the wood surface. You may wonder how that protects the surface, though. Basically, soaps traditionally where made of oils of some sort or another. Your grandma or great grandma would have used “ivory” soap f...
Hard to believe, I know. It’s been over a year since I announced the workbench complete, although there was always that missing part, that loose end that had to be tied off in order to officially declare it a complete project. Not only was it a loose end (literally, the vise screw was hanging loose in it’s slot), but it was a missing integral part of the bench that I kept on wishing I had setup and functional. The Wagon Vise to hold down boards for planing flat and similar work...
Thanks in large part to WhatTheChuck, I’m giving serious thought to changing the design of the underbody of the table. With all due respect to Schroeder's table, which I prefer the looks of in many ways, I think the lack of a footrest underneath is a good thing, and the spindles underneath are magnificent, yet kind of a waste of time, energy, effort, and lumber as they’ll be hidden by chairs. I think the trestle-style design might be more pragmatic, and still embody the simplici...
Today I’ll be staining some maple. The customer want a cherry finish. Not a new cherry wood look, but the old antique look with years patina. More like the stuff you’d find on the a showroom floor call “cherry finish”. As most of you know, maple doesn’t absorb stain very good, so to achieve a dark, rich finish is impossible with stain only. Several years ago, I standardize this finish for my customers and make to sample piece with the steps that need to be...
I was able to get back out into the shop and make some progress on this project. This was my first foray into template routing. I can definitely see the power of this technique. I was able to knock out the inside, decorative cuts on all four sides and they’re identical. They need almost no sanding. The slight errors in the template were the only problems on the finished sides. It took only a light hand sanding to fix those. I didn’t have too much trouble with wood grain, ...
I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...
When I started working with bladed tools (chisels/planes/etc) I wanted a sharpening system that was on the cheap, small and storable and versatile. I chose to start with the scary sharp, and used sand papers from 100grit (rough shaping and cleaning nicked blades) to 2500 for final honing and green compound for touch ups. I added the Veritas MK-II honing guide and was using it for reshaping/resestting blades and honing them through the grits. While this method worked for the time I wanted s...
This project is half finished – Literally I mean. I figured since I’ll be working on the drawers, and the toolcart is in the basement it’ll get dirty, and oily finger marks might penetrate the wood and no sanding in the world will take those out, so I decided to finish the cabinet and protect it from the ‘elements’ around…. and boy did I get struck out by one of those elements… but more about that later. And so I gave the cabinet a good sanding wit...
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