LumberJocks

Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'finish'

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View PurpLev's profile

Machinist Toolcart #9: Half Finished and Drawers Part II

08-17-2011 06:08 AM by PurpLev | 9 comments »

This project is half finished – Literally I mean. I figured since I’ll be working on the drawers, and the toolcart is in the basement it’ll get dirty, and oily finger marks might penetrate the wood and no sanding in the world will take those out, so I decided to finish the cabinet and protect it from the ‘elements’ around…. and boy did I get struck out by one of those elements… but more about that later. And so I gave the cabinet a good sanding wit...

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View Lee Barker's profile

Minwax Wipe On Poly: Take It To The Limit #1: Overview and Disclaimer

03-01-2012 05:56 PM by Lee Barker | 3 comments »

I am in no way connected to Minwax. As a professional woodworker, I view their retail product line as not quite professional level, but quality nonetheless. I also allow that any retail product has the potential to be an effective coating to have around. I build vertical electric basses whose bodies are, generally, cherry and alder, and are about fourteen inches wide and thirty six inches long and two inches thick. The edges have a two grooves cut with a vee-groove/flush trim bit (an ho...

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View HappyHowie's profile

Blanket Chest #9: Sanding Sealer Coat Applied

12-22-2015 03:02 PM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

I placed my first finish coat; Zinsser’s dewaxed sanding sealer. I wiped that on all surfaces; aka per Charles Neil’s recommendation; meaning all surfaces like including the inside the case and on the case bottom. I put my used rags into a lidded container of water outdoors. I do not need a fire over keeping a used rag… I will brush on amber Shellac next. It should warm up this chest some. I think. The Chest’s Case and Plinth The Chest’s Lid This ...

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View Al Navas's profile

Tips #2: Suntan your cherry, #2

07-15-2008 04:18 PM by Al Navas | 4 comments »

From my latest blog entry, First, my thanks to all who read my earlier entry, and sent me e-mail requesting a follow-up. Here is that follow-up, from my blog:==================================== In this episode I answer a question from Michael, on WoodNet: Is there a difference in suntanning before or after applying the Waterlox? I noticed that you only applied one coat on 1/2 of the board but never showed the end result of the suntan. And my reply was: I currently have the tes...

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View Chris Davis's profile

Train Bed #5: The Finish

04-15-2009 01:56 PM by Chris Davis | 0 comments »

I’ve put the finish on the train bed. It is just the base color. The rest will be a vinyl similar to what the car wraps are made from. On the base I used a black lacquer undercoater and a flat black lacquer. I’ll do a little bit of assembly on it before it goes to the graphic people. Here are some pictures after the finish: For more building pictures see my Current Projects link at wwbeds.com or poggyskids.com. Watch us build this or see what we are doing live:

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View Eric's profile

Dovetail Box #22: How I Fixed the End Grain

07-16-2008 06:42 AM by Eric | 7 comments »

From all the feedback I got on my end grain finishing problem, Kaleo had the biggest word (oxidization) so I think he’s right. :^) However, I couldn’t bring myself to apply his solution, which was to sand the box down and then to put a finer grit on the end grain. Actually, my wife instantly vetoed any solution which involved removing the finish I already had on it. She loves the box, and isn’t concerned about the flaws. But I had to do something. So here’s what I d...

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View Chris Davis's profile

Daily Update #34: February 3, 2010

02-03-2010 03:42 PM by Chris Davis | 3 comments »

What’s happening in the shop for February 3, 2010 . Still spraying the Special Edition Locker Murphy bed. I have it dyed and stained. All we have left is the finish coats. For missed video and building pictures see my Current Projects link at wwbeds.com or poggyskids.com. Watch us live:<div></div>

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View Chris Davis's profile

Oak Boat Bed #5: The Finish

03-02-2012 11:51 AM by Chris Davis | 0 comments »

I got it built and ready for the finish. The customer requested that we do a two tone color. They really want it exactly like the saw on our web site (see example). I tweaked the colors a little bit but for the most part it is standard Minwax colors (see color chart). I used Red Chestnut and Golden Pecan. When using stain you can not tape off. There is not way to get a crisp line. You’ll always have some bleeding. I just had to stain parts as separate pieces and assemble them ...

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View woodengaragedoorguy's profile

What are the best stains and paints for a manufacturing company to use on wood garage/entry doors?

08-13-2013 03:43 PM by woodengaragedoorguy | 1 comment »

I currently use Sikkens Cetol Plus stains and Benjamin Moore Paints for the wood garage doors and wood entry doors I make.I like the products but they are softer products which makes it hard to ship when ABF comes to pick them up. Even after I let them dry for 2 days I still get random shipments where there are shipping impressions in the finish. I’ve talked to Hirshfields and other paint sources and they say these finishes are great, but not the best for a production facility.Does anyo...

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View andyboy's profile

Lamp Table part 1

03-02-2012 10:04 PM by andyboy | 6 comments »

Here is a little lamp table I have made to demonstrate hanging a door using butt hinges. In this video I show the process involved to construct the base less the door. The door is constructed and hung in part 2.

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