Okay, so I’m just about done. I’ve put the “last coat” on, and buffed it out with 00000 steel wool. Not too sure if I like it as is, or if I’ll add one more coat. It’s easy enough to do, so it’s no big deal. But there’s one thing I’m unhappy about, and that’s the exposed end grain on the pins and tails. The end grain looks all dried out and kinda nasty. Check it out (click to enlarge): I’m not sure how it got this way...
Well, after my last post I decided to back up a step. I sanded down a bit with 360 grit, and then without thinking I wiped the whole thing down with mineral spirits to make sure the sawdust was all gone. About halfway through doing that, I realized that I was also stripping off whatever finish I had already had on the box (or at least much of it)! Hah. Oh well, could be worse, right? So I went with Marc recommendation to use a straight wiping varnish with a 50/50 mixture of varnish (I boug...
So I’m working on finishing my wife’s Mothers Day box. I went with Marc’s varnish/oil/mineral spirits blend (1 part each), but as I was applying the first coat I saw that there was something all solidified in my mixture, and it wouldn’t blend with the rest. I went ahead and finished the coat and emailed Marc for his take. He thought that maybe the varnish had already cured, so I went and bought some new varnish. No problems on this batch. So after applying a second ...
Shellacin’I cleaned up 90% shop dust by vac and broom and then run the overhead air filter for a bit before finishing. I protected the workbench with plastic. The panels are raised up on scrap sticks. You can see a bottle of Transtint (Dark mission brown) in the foreground. I add denatured alcohol to a container and then add the shellac to the consistency of a 1lb or so cut. Very thin. I am padding on the shellac with a clean t-shirt scrap wrapped around another scrap. I also ...
I had a little more handwork to do on the Little Journey’s Bookstand. I fiddled with the tusks a bit. I originally sanded the piece to 400 but decided to sand to 220 this time. The loose tenons/tusks took forever to sand and detail. Fuming Time I have always wanted to try this. Two years ago I had a student whose dad owned a blueprint shop. He gave me a large bottle of super strength ammonia. I had bought an ammonia respirator in preparation for the job. I build a simple te...
I have to admit, since I finished with the actual woodworking part of my wife's box, and presented it to her, I’ve barely thought about it. But the box isn’t finished yet (literally), so I’d better press on to the end. So here’s my question for you: how would you finish the box? I was considering a simple 1:1:1 blend of boiled linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits, as recommended by Marc Spagnuolo in one of his podcasts. That’s the finish I used on my Good ...
Hey Guys- I’m finishing up a Hard Maple table I built and am looking for the right finish for it. Finishing was never my best talent, especially on the lighter woods like Maple. I’ve got a coat of sanding sealer on already, and am looking to put on two or three top coats that won’t yellow over time (I just hate the look of yellowed wood). What would you all recommend for a relatively clear, non-yellowing finish? I’ve got a bottle of Formby’s Tung Oil finish that ...
Well, yesterday I decided to mortise my box to accept the hinges. I don’t have a jig for this, but since they are very small hinges I decided to free hand them with the router and a straight bit. I practiced a couple of times on a piece of scrap and got the depth perfect, then I made my cuts on the box and they turned out great! Next I decided to connect the lid and the box with the hinges and here is where the problems started… My original plan was to connect the lid to the...
It’s been a while since I’ve put some things I’ve learned in writing. I like the idea of blogs as a type of woodworking journal. It seems I see a lot of cool tricks and tips in articles and forget them pretty quickly. I just got to the point in my woodworking self-education that I now understand that finishing is really what makes the difference b/w good projects and great projects. I’ve done a ton of experimenting over the last few weeks and had a wide range of re...
2 skateboards; 1 finished; 1 to go. Skateboard 1: logo was created using the Omni-Gel process and I think it has turned out quite well. Skateboard 2: I couldn’t get a photo copy today to repeat the process and my backup plan is a plastic window decal that you print on. The plastic is like the material used with overhead projectors. The back is tacky so it will stick to smooth surfaces but it can be removed and re-used. Test A: I printed the decal (it looks great) and I tried us...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1265 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 95 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 88 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Just for Fun... - 82 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 75 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1287 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 388 entries
- dbhost - 370 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 311 entries
- Karson - 301 entries
- Martin Sojka - 297 entries
- William - 257 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- mafe - 216 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 187 entries
- Rustic - 184 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- shipwright - 168 entries
- PurpLev - 163 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 161 entries
- stefang - 148 entries