What’s happening in the shop for February 3, 2010 . Still spraying the Special Edition Locker Murphy bed. I have it dyed and stained. All we have left is the finish coats. For missed video and building pictures see my Current Projects link at wwbeds.com or poggyskids.com. Watch us live:<div></div>
So I took a few minutes to draw this up in AutoCAD (sorry I’m not up to speed in SketchUp yet). The only dimension I had to assume were the front-to-back rails that intersect the middle of the chair back. I went with 3” because that’s what looked to scale, and gave room for a proper radius. I could’ve sprung for the $20 full-sized plans, but what’s the fun in that? The reason I drew this out is because the back is defined by a 7 degree angle. I thought it w...
So, the new top is in daily use. I put seven or eight coats of Bristol Finish water-based polyurethane on it. It’s a marine varnish for boat interiors, which I used on my old table, and it’s pretty impervious. No coasters required! It’s still sitting on top of the mock-up MDF and the old table, so it’s pretty high. I was going to start on the Rodel Taliesin base next, but since I made the leaves, I don’t have enough lumber to make the base, or the mone...
I was able to successfully refinish my boo boos on the breadboard ends. I also sanded the leaves and finished them at the same time. The ends had a bit more stain to start with (from the previous finish), but they both came out looking great. I’m really glad I learned my lesson on shellac. BTW, it did a bit of redistributing of the aniline dye, so I had to quickly blend/tip it before it got tacky. I missed a couple of spots on one leaf but was able to blend it in with the gel stain...
So I followed the recipe I synthesized for the pagoda tile frame and applied it to the top and breadboard ends. It turned out amazing! It looks like something right out of an antique store. Here’s the progression:..^ TransTint “Dark Mission Brown” aniline dye in isopropyl alcohol only (with flash on = more red)...^ Same with flash off (see how muddy it looks)..^ One coat of Zinser amber shellac (1 pound cut). Man shellac is a pain to work with. Once you paint it on, th...
When I bought the $500 worth of quartersawn white oak a few months ago, I promised my girlfriend that I’d make a dining table for Thanksgiving. We had to run down to the Caribbean for a business trip over Turkey Day (don’t cry for me), so we fried a turkey the weekend before. Long story short, Christmas and New Years came and went and we’re still serving it up on the MDF mock up. Sigh… I found an unexpected week off between sailing lessons (I’ve got 20 days w...
I’ve completed the torsion box workbench top! I milled the cherry boards using my jointer and planer and finished with a little hand-planing to remove the mill marks. I attached them using screws, keeping them flush with the top surface. Even so, I had to hand plane the cherry top in some places because it was a little higher than the table top. I counter-sunk and counter-bore the screws, leaving a 3/8” diameter hole. I used a plug cutter to create some plugs from birch...
What’s happing in the shop for December 8, 2009 . After I get done with a murphy bed break-down for a moving company, I’ll be doing a lot of spraying. We have a couple baseball beds and a daybed to finish. For missed video and building pictures see my Current Projects link at wwbeds.com or poggyskids.com. Watch us live:<div></div>
I finally had a day to work on our stuff. With a little urging from my girlfriend to finish the fumed table sitting in our dining room, I bit the bullet and gave it a good shellacing. This was my first time using shellac. It’s pretty difficult to work with, as it dries fast and leave a build-up. I cut the Zinser Amber in half with denatured alcohol, and grabbed a beer for myself (I thought it only fair), and went to town on it. It gave it a nice, rich look. When that dried, I ...
Today I’ll be staining some maple. The customer want a cherry finish. Not a new cherry wood look, but the old antique look with years patina. More like the stuff you’d find on the a showroom floor call “cherry finish”. As most of you know, maple doesn’t absorb stain very good, so to achieve a dark, rich finish is impossible with stain only. Several years ago, I standardize this finish for my customers and make to sample piece with the steps that need to be...
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