Hey LJ just posting a recent video I did on making a tiny bud vase I make from Australian Red wood. The shape is not perfect but it looks nice because of its size. Enjoy!
Lots of vegetable gardening done in the past couple of months, and it could not wait, so the harp building project had to wait a while. Finally last week I got back into it after 6 weeks of seldom working on it. Now it is almost done- but let me go back to where I left off in March.I had these beautiful abalone mother-of-pearl wings provided to me by a fine Lumberjock. She also did a great blog about how to do inlays, and that was very helpful to me. I didn’t follow instructions exactly...
I build wood geared clocks and have been thinking about making the gears looks a little more metal like with maybe some bronze and copper powders in a stain. Has anyone done this before and how did it turn out? I do not want the gears to be bright metal colored just have a hint of aged bronze look to them. I found another clock maker in Russia but the translation is completely lost between responses. The video of his clock can be seen here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrF70MW7c1c It...
Just curious…..there are so many opinions out there regarding how to care for your project when it is finished in Danish Oil and then Waxed…. More wax? Furniture Polish? Cleaner then Wax? What do you guys and gals out there use and why? I usually just re-wax with more of the same that I normally use, but not everyone has that available…...
Time lapse application of our oil / resin finish on our A chair, hope you enjoy! To watch in HD click on the movie to be taken to youtube.
I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2” thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look. You’l...
I mentioned it in the previous post and as I was working on the drawers I had the main carcass take the finish to make use of time. Mahogany much like Oak has large open pores. My finishing goal was more for practice than necessity, but I was aiming for an antique polished look – shiny outside. I knew I would have to fill in those pores if I want an even polished surface. So my plan was to start with a filler coat which I tried to concoct using dewaxed shellac and mahogany sanding sa...
Just a reminder French Fri Friday is when I showcase some of the smaller things that often get overlooked. End tables are something that can be sold as in a pair or will even work by itself. One thing that I have learned is that to make one more versatile it is best to design and finish it where it can be view for all sides. With the need for surfaces in the middle if the room, next to a mid-room sofa, most unfinished end table will not work easily. A little planning ahead and a little mo...
A lot happening in the shop for November 22, 2010. We are finishing out Charton’s bed with trundle, finishing Rierson’s muprhy bed, bookcased and other cabinets. Building Sever’s drawer units. Start building Reed’s Murphy bed For missed video and building pictures see my Current Projects link at wwbeds.com or poggyskids.com. Watch us live:
People often ask me about my finishes and I am always wondering about how others do their finish too. I feel the finish is the key to any furniture. A bad finish can destroy the look and the value of a piece. I thought I’d share what I do and what material and equipment I use. As in equipment, I use an air assisted airless. It takes the best of both worlds. Low air volume but without using too high of pressure as in the airless rigs. It works like an airless, which I used for ...
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