I was holding off on the last (lower and larger) drawers due to lack of material which in essence was a good thing as It made me rethink those drawer dimensions and ended up with what I believe is a better build, but more about that later. What was the issue? The lower 3 drawers are the largest/tallest at 6”, 5”, and 5”, but I only had enough materials for 3 ~2.5” tall drawers + some additional material but not enough to glue material together to give me 6”...
This project is half finished – Literally I mean. I figured since I’ll be working on the drawers, and the toolcart is in the basement it’ll get dirty, and oily finger marks might penetrate the wood and no sanding in the world will take those out, so I decided to finish the cabinet and protect it from the ‘elements’ around…. and boy did I get struck out by one of those elements… but more about that later. And so I gave the cabinet a good sanding wit...
Hey LJ just posting a recent video I did on making a tiny bud vase I make from Australian Red wood. The shape is not perfect but it looks nice because of its size. Enjoy!
Lots of vegetable gardening done in the past couple of months, and it could not wait, so the harp building project had to wait a while. Finally last week I got back into it after 6 weeks of seldom working on it. Now it is almost done- but let me go back to where I left off in March.I had these beautiful abalone mother-of-pearl wings provided to me by a fine Lumberjock. She also did a great blog about how to do inlays, and that was very helpful to me. I didn’t follow instructions exactly...
I build wood geared clocks and have been thinking about making the gears looks a little more metal like with maybe some bronze and copper powders in a stain. Has anyone done this before and how did it turn out? I do not want the gears to be bright metal colored just have a hint of aged bronze look to them. I found another clock maker in Russia but the translation is completely lost between responses. The video of his clock can be seen here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrF70MW7c1c It...
Just curious…..there are so many opinions out there regarding how to care for your project when it is finished in Danish Oil and then Waxed…. More wax? Furniture Polish? Cleaner then Wax? What do you guys and gals out there use and why? I usually just re-wax with more of the same that I normally use, but not everyone has that available…...
Time lapse application of our oil / resin finish on our A chair, hope you enjoy! To watch in HD click on the movie to be taken to youtube.
I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2” thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look. You’l...
I mentioned it in the previous post and as I was working on the drawers I had the main carcass take the finish to make use of time. Mahogany much like Oak has large open pores. My finishing goal was more for practice than necessity, but I was aiming for an antique polished look – shiny outside. I knew I would have to fill in those pores if I want an even polished surface. So my plan was to start with a filler coat which I tried to concoct using dewaxed shellac and mahogany sanding sa...
Just a reminder French Fri Friday is when I showcase some of the smaller things that often get overlooked. End tables are something that can be sold as in a pair or will even work by itself. One thing that I have learned is that to make one more versatile it is best to design and finish it where it can be view for all sides. With the need for surfaces in the middle if the room, next to a mid-room sofa, most unfinished end table will not work easily. A little planning ahead and a little mo...
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