In my opinion this is the best and easiest way to finish pine projects. This isn’t the greatest demonstration but hopefully I was able to show how easy it is to finish pine. The product I am using is Zinzer’s Amber Shellac. I suppose you could get similar results using a shellac compatible tint or dye for brown tones but I have not tried. I have never messed up a project using this method. The video is a little on the long side so I do apologize. I would love to hear any comments,...
One of the most mysterious things about Danish modern furniture to me when I started making it was this strange soap finish that is talked about so often. I wondered, “What is this all about”? Well, the easy answer is that it is a soap that is simple washed onto the wood surface. You may wonder how that protects the surface, though. Basically, soaps traditionally where made of oils of some sort or another. Your grandma or great grandma would have used “ivory” soap f...
...takes 90% of the time. The remaining 10% of the project takes an additional 90% of the time. So it feels like we’re closing in, but finishing and hardware installation are still going to take a little while. Sunday morning Daniel was off partying with friends in San Francisco. I went out to the shop and did a bunch of shaping, and then Charlene and I went over to Tall Toad Music and, with the help of the very friendly staff there, dug through the basement ‘til we found ...
Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores. We’ll try and do a summary of everything learned here in one blog post. Supplies needed:Asphaltum—available in powder form or liquid, which is what I used. Art supply stores seem to be the best source, as it is used in acid etching.Solvent—Xylol or turpentine should either work fine. Both are capable of suspending the heavy...
OK, first attempt at a blog, so please bear with me. This blog series is my journey of trying to replicate the japanning process used on many tools, especially hand planes, for over a century. It will include some abject failures, as well as what was found to work for me. This blog is not a commentary on how someone else might choose to finish their planes when doing a restoration and I am not necessarily advocating japanning over any other finish. There are many people on this site t...
In this video I’m applying my 3 part hand rubbed oil/resin finish to a Canadian Black Walnut coffee table base. I talk more about what and amount of ingredients in my 3 part hand rubbed oil resin finish. I can’t call it mine though, pretty sure it’s been used by many many people. I initially read about it in a Sam Maloof book I think it was called Woodworker. Well I hope you enjoy the video, I finish it up by showing the curly walnut book matched live edge coffee table to...
This is a time lapse video of me wiping on and off my 3 part hand rubbed oil / resin finish. This is the top to a solid walnut coffee table, the top is book matched live edge curly Canadian walnut. P.S I had fun with the music this time (-:
After getting everything set up, the next step was put the finish on! I really like this step, each coat increases the gloss, depth and color. I use a two finish process, both parts are from General Finishes. The first finish is their oil based coat. I wipe the finish on with a piece of cheesecloth. The first coat basically soaks into the wood. Areas where the grain is very tight, even the first coat shows a little gloss. I add more coats until the wood shows a uniform gloss....
So, a fellow carpenter just told me about danish oil so naturally, i picked some up. I just put it on a cherry and ash box which I will be finishing soon and WOW! I was blown away by the enhancement of the oil. I have mainly been using linseed oil, shellac and polyurethane lately but I really think danish oil is going to open pandora’s box of finishes. Again, I’ll say WOW! God bless.
Here is a little lamp table I have made to demonstrate hanging a door using butt hinges. In this video I show the process involved to construct the base less the door. The door is constructed and hung in part 2.
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1545 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 95 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1570 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 394 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 271 entries
- William - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- shipwright - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 188 entries
- Rustic - 186 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 181 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 170 entries