This is a time lapse video of me wiping on and off my 3 part hand rubbed oil / resin finish. This is the top to a solid walnut coffee table, the top is book matched live edge curly Canadian walnut. P.S I had fun with the music this time (-:
After getting everything set up, the next step was put the finish on! I really like this step, each coat increases the gloss, depth and color. I use a two finish process, both parts are from General Finishes. The first finish is their oil based coat. I wipe the finish on with a piece of cheesecloth. The first coat basically soaks into the wood. Areas where the grain is very tight, even the first coat shows a little gloss. I add more coats until the wood shows a uniform gloss....
So, a fellow carpenter just told me about danish oil so naturally, i picked some up. I just put it on a cherry and ash box which I will be finishing soon and WOW! I was blown away by the enhancement of the oil. I have mainly been using linseed oil, shellac and polyurethane lately but I really think danish oil is going to open pandora’s box of finishes. Again, I’ll say WOW! God bless.
Here is a little lamp table I have made to demonstrate hanging a door using butt hinges. In this video I show the process involved to construct the base less the door. The door is constructed and hung in part 2.
I got it built and ready for the finish. The customer requested that we do a two tone color. They really want it exactly like the saw on our web site (see example). I tweaked the colors a little bit but for the most part it is standard Minwax colors (see color chart). I used Red Chestnut and Golden Pecan. When using stain you can not tape off. There is not way to get a crisp line. You’ll always have some bleeding. I just had to stain parts as separate pieces and assemble them ...
I am in no way connected to Minwax. As a professional woodworker, I view their retail product line as not quite professional level, but quality nonetheless. I also allow that any retail product has the potential to be an effective coating to have around. I build vertical electric basses whose bodies are, generally, cherry and alder, and are about fourteen inches wide and thirty six inches long and two inches thick. The edges have a two grooves cut with a vee-groove/flush trim bit (an ho...
2/2/12 – Groundhog Day I really don’t like finishing. It seems every time I have a project glued up and ready for final finishing, I blow it with the stain and/or top coat. THIS TIME IS DIFFERENT(so far) First I added 6 coats of Transtint dye. (Left door) I’m a first-time dye-er so I used regular water as my solvent. I suppose I could have made a stronger dye mix and saved on the number of coats. Live and learn. The right door has one additional coat of Oly...
Hi all, Here is part three, finishing with shellac. I just wanted to show a beautiful finish which is really easy to apply. Hope you all enjoy. Paul
When I started working with bladed tools (chisels/planes/etc) I wanted a sharpening system that was on the cheap, small and storable and versatile. I chose to start with the scary sharp, and used sand papers from 100grit (rough shaping and cleaning nicked blades) to 2500 for final honing and green compound for touch ups. I added the Veritas MK-II honing guide and was using it for reshaping/resestting blades and honing them through the grits. While this method worked for the time I wanted s...
for more pics check out my blog here! My client, Jeffrey, and I imagined, designed and built the first point of purchase (pop) product display unit for tünr last summer. Tünr was the imagination of my brother Jeffrey coming to life as he dreamed, planned, proposed, organized and made crucial decisions. He had this idea; “Fine Tune Your Feet”. This is what he called tünr the sock and lace company that is now launched on the Internet and in street boutiques across the country. He approach...
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