Ready to choose finish Here are my options in stock: Wipe-on Varnish (MW Tung Oil Finish) Epoxy—West Systems w/#207 Clear Hardener Shellac (Clear) BLO FWIW, I hate “flash” photography. It really brings out flaws and false contrasts, IMO. To the eye, my corner lid fix does not have that much contrast. I wet with denatured alcohol to clean of dust and to be able to see what the box looks like with a finish. Things look better than these im...
I don’t know why this video didn’t embed properly. I did it the same way I always have, but this time I got a black square. If you know why then please let me know! At least the YouTube link works. Here is the photo, but you will have to click on the link below the black box to see the video: Photo is not the video, click on link below black box to see video. View on YouTube ANYWAY… I inlaid decorative black stars in my slab coffee table. This is one of thos...
Lots of questions come up concerning various “oil” and poly finishing mixtures and methods. Below are links to two articles by Bob Flexner that provide a great deal of information on the subject. The first is from 2008, the second from 2011. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/the_basics_of_wiping_varnish2http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use The short and sweet version is plain old varnish, poly/alkyd/phenolic (poly...
Thanks to everyone for sticking with me to the end. In this video I cover all the little things that have to happen before I can finish, as well as the finishing process itself. The bench turned out better than expected and my customer was elated. As always, keep the conversation going below. Thanks for watching! View on YouTube Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/thomaslightleFacebook: https://www.facebook.com/redbarnwoodworking/Twitter: https://twitter.com/tnlightleWebsite: http://w...
If this project was for myself I would probably still use Shellac for its finish, clear but not amber. I would follow the suggestions I have received here to rub on the Shellac. I would not attempt to brush it again on this project. What I have learned is that applying Shellac takes a very trained and experienced hand, for a brushed on finish for sure. Watching Chuck Bender brush on Shellac makes it look too easy. There are years of experience in his badger hair brush strokes, For this ...
I placed my first finish coat; Zinsser’s dewaxed sanding sealer. I wiped that on all surfaces; aka per Charles Neil’s recommendation; meaning all surfaces like including the inside the case and on the case bottom. I put my used rags into a lidded container of water outdoors. I do not need a fire over keeping a used rag… I will brush on amber Shellac next. It should warm up this chest some. I think. The Chest’s Case and Plinth The Chest’s Lid This ...
Hi All; This week I was very busy so I didn’t have time for a more traditional project video. I did want to try a new finishing technique I had come across called Hydro-Painting. It involves spray paint and a bucket of water. The resulting box is from one of my first attempts. Take a look and let me know what you think. Thanks, Mike View on YouTube
My first big build, and what a journey it's been. Yet another workbench. #4: Fitting the vises and finishing up
After a lot of planing and a lot of sanding I arrived at the above, and was ready to fit the vises. (By the way, the white spots are filler used to seal and fill som nasty planing marks where the grain switched direction… Next time I’m buying better wood.) I wanted a leg vise, but wasn’t decided on whether I was going to go with a standard parallel guide with a pin or if I wanted to try a pinless design. I haven’t used a lot of benches but the pin just didn’t...
Continued testing finishes for curly cherry started with varnishes and shellacs. Having read much about how tung oil brings out chatoyance, I applied for comparison one coat each: (a) 2 lbs. cut ruby shellac, (b) pure tung oil from Woodcraft, and ( c) Bulls Eye seal coat from Zinsser. The shellacs gave good chatoyance without much blotching. The oil initially gave quite a depth, chatoyance and color, more than the shellacs. However, some spots became quite dark, so the sample (b) a...
The goal is to get a finish similar to this from groovyman6. Sample boads are rift sawn white oak, first dyed with Transtint Brown Mahogany, either at 1 to 32 dilution (two thinner bands) or at 1 to 15 (three thicker bands): (photo taken in the shade) After the dye dried, I lightly sanded the darker bands with either grit 600 (the top one) or 220 (the bottom one), then applied Minwax Tung Oil Finish per instructions and then, next day, one board was stained with Minwax Mahogany Gel S...
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