This is my old tablesaw fence. It is a little hard to see from the photo, but I cracked it trying to “micro-adjust” it. So I started to look for an aftermarket fence, of which there are some really nice ones out there. I just didn’t want to spend quite as much as they were asking because I have a previously owned Central Machinery tablesaw. I also was curious to see if I could come up with my own fence. I was worried about two things with most diy fence systems that...
Hand plane fence DIY (for my no 3 and 4) BlogMaking your own fence for any metal handplane. I decided to take up the challenge of making a fence for my hand planes, this time I made one that will fit my no. 3 and no 4 Stanley and Record planes.The next one I build will be for the larger no. 6 and 7, but you can follow this DIY for every size. You need:Hardwood or plywood in a good quality.(A) 6mm thick; app. 20 cm (8 inch) by 15 cm / 6 inches (B) 6mm thick; app. 20 cm (8 inch) by 10 cm ...
OK, so yeah – another blog about a router table, but since I’m going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this. I’ve had a Rockler router table top + plate + fence which I got when I bought my router (Bosch 2 1/4hp). It had the misfurtune of being on the floor when my basement was flooded a couple of years ago, so that top was ruined. I since have been planning to replace it with a shop-built version, and make a full enclosed ...
I decided it was high time I quit clamping a piece of wood to my bandsaw table whenever I needed a fence, and upgraded to something more easily adjustable. Based on a design for a drill press fence in a recent Woodsmith Small Shops book, I came up with this cleat style fence. I used 2×4’s for the front and back rails, putting the 45 degree angle on them with my table saw. I bolted them to the existing threads on my bandsaw’s fence. The fence is a piece of cherry, and t...
Once I got the fence upgraded as described in the second blog of this series it was time to get the router table built. Here are some pictures of the granite table added as a right wing to the Ridgid 4511 table saw. Glued up 2” of mdf and laminated top and bottom with leftovers from a local cabinet shop. OK, it’s only as heavy as granite. Here the laminated slab is ready for cutting dados for the mitre and t-tracks. Here are reference lines on masking tape for aligning the insert tem...
Well here is my latest sled design. This sled is a combination of many sleds that i have seen in the past. One sled that really influenced it, is the super sled by john nixon at eagle lake woodworking. I like the t track on the sled part (the sheet part) but i am going to use real t track. I also liked the t track on top of the fence, which i incorporated, but it stops there. This sled should be able to do just about everything. You can cut 45’s ( blade tilting at 45 deg ) and every o...
As I was getting to the stage in my door project that required a lot of resawing, I started looking for information on how to do that. On the web and also in the classroom of my local Woodcraft store I saw tall shop-made fences used for resawing. So I decided to build one. I selected 3/4” melamine for the fence. The melamine faces provide a relatively hard, slick surface for the fence face, and the particle board substrate does not have a propensity to warp. Unfortuantely, the st...
Work(shop) in Progress #7: New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511
So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due! Actually I was planning on working my the Bead Box, but wanted to fine tune the table saw, and ‘get it done’ first, and so, the plan was to use the 5/8” phenolic (not phenolic plywood) panel that I got (I got a 1-3/8” phenolic panel to use as a router table top, and while at it, picked up some ‘lighter’ thinner panels as well, for inserts, plates, etc). I figured – I already have it, and might as wel...
My earlier router table fences lacked control. I would tap one side and the other would move. Tapping is an inexact way to move something in very small increments. I’ve hit on a very inexpensive, easy to make, router adjustment system that works well. It can quickly, and easily, zero in on precise fence adjustments. This fence is attached to the table using four bolts that can be set up and removed in just a couple of minutes. So less talking and more photos; thanks to my neighbor...
This was supposed to be part #2 but it’s #1. See #2 for the back story on my router table. The first improvement to my router table was the fence. I have a bunch of mdf that’s been in the shop for years so that’s what I used. I know, not the best material for a project like this. But, my fence was a hodgepodge of ideas and I built it with no plans and just guessed at the measurements. IF it doesn’t hold up at least I’ll have a better idea of what I’...
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