Looks like I won’t be getting much done this weekend as I have to work through it. Surprise! Maybe next Friday I can get my epoxy :-( Matt this may be a good time for you to draw both your boats in Sketchup or some other activity that will give me a chance to ketch up (get it ketch up… ketch is a kinda boat…I need sleep LOL)
I didn’t get much done today as I am feeling under the weather, have had for the last several days and just can’t seem to shake it. Shorty from PDR sent me my hull number today. I have half of the entire Manitoba fleet in my shop LOL!The other hull was registered in 2010 so it may not even be afloat any more. I’m probably going to head into Winnipeg this weekend so I don’t anticipate getting too much done. I still have to figure out a name.
Have only had a few moments these last couple of days to get in the shop. I’ve faired the lines a bit more but am not quite satisfied with the result so I need to spend a bit more time. I’d cut my chine logs but I am now really considering using stitch and glue instead to learn more about the method so when it comes time to build myself a ‘pullin’ boat I won’t be completely new at it. I really like the looks of those Whitehall gigs. Well gotta get back to the...
I won a REALLY beat up bedrock 603 off of the bay recently. It had a crack on one cheek and a mean twist to the bed. So I figured for 20$, I would see if it could bring it back to life. After a little welding (I suck at stick welding) Placed in to the oven to make the welds actually fileable and to relax the casting. After bringing it up to orange heat, I let it cool slowly in the box overnight. It was still a little warm the next day. This is after it cooled. and some f...
Well, I decided to use epoxy after all, and it seems like it’s going to give the desired effect. I put a quart of epoxy on it for the first coat because I didn’t want it all to just run off the sides. After it dries I will put another quart on. It was surprisingly easy to work with, and had a pretty lengthy drying time. I used a flat block of wood to spread an even coat, and a foam brush to do the side parts. I ran a propane torch over the surface to take out the bubbles, which...
In this video Scott Shaeffer is joined by Kris Williams from Rocky Blue Woodworks who introduces us to various table top finishes. We’ll also be talking about how to build an aspen table top appropriately for an epoxy finish! This video is 1 of 2 in the series. To see more from Kris, follow this link: http://www.rockybluewoodworks.com/ This video is 2 of 2. See the full tutorial by following this link: http://logfurniturehowto.com/tutorial/how-to-apply-epoxy-finish/
I’ve been working on a custom home bar built from Bubinga and Walnut using solid and veneered wood. The counters will be protected from water using System Three Mirrorcoat a 2 part 2:1 epoxy finish that self levels and cures crystal clear. I had to give the counter a light sand and through 400 to 4000 then used a 3 step polishing process to bring the counter back to a beautiful gloss shine.
This is a time lapse video created using an I-phone on a tripod. I’m covering a recently finished bar top which is solid 2 5/8’ think live edge Bubinga in Three Systems MirrorCoat. This is a 2:1 epoxy that self levels and is completely clear, your able to remove bubbles with a blow torch one down side is a 3 day cure time 90%, 100% in 7 days Everything worked out well, this is still a project in progress so I will have more pictures and videos about this bar once completed ...
After cleaning the bark, the next task at hand was to fill the large crack in the top and the slab for the legs with epoxy, I used blue masking tape to cover the openings on the underside and the sides of both pices of walnut and placed them both over plastic/paper drop cloths from the depot. Their cheap and protect my benches and floor. I used System 3 mirror coat two-part epoxy, mixed according to the instructions using some cheap plastic mixing cups from an autobody supply house. I p...
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