Hello again, As I mentioned in my last post, when I got the next coat of epoxy put on I would post it, so here it is. This will be short, I promise. This side was still missing the glitter from when I first poured the epoxy because it sank to the bottom. So, I let it dry and applied another coat of epoxy mixed with glitter so it would match. Tomorrow I will coat this whole side with epoxy to include the edges. It should give the glitter some depth and a nice flood coat will finish bringing ou...
This is a quick up date of my progress. I cut out the butterfly on my band saw, then hand sanded it to round out the edges to a 400 grit. Of course small things do break & this was no exception. The antennas of my butterfly broke, so I am in the process of fixing that. First I tried some tight bond2, it didn’t stay. Next & finally, CA glue with a mixture of blood wood dust. I’m letting it dry now, then a little more sanding & I’ll be ready for the next coat of ep...
Hello to anyone that is actually following along. I now have the epoxy poured, added some red & white glitter with some little stars, hearts & flowers. I noticed that most of the items sank to the bottom, I’ll have to make up for this during the final coat. I covered the bottom with packing tape so it wouldn’t just run through. During the tape removal I noticed It is still rather sticky. So take note: more drying time for the bottom to dry. Top of project after the epox...
Hello everyone. This is my very first attempt at a blog, ever. If you are reading this then something in the title has captured your interest. I am attempting an experiment with epoxy (EnviroTex) that I haven’t seen before so I guess you would say I’m the pioneer. The stuff I’m using is called EnviroTex lite pour on high gloss finish. It’s a two part mixture of epoxy resin & polyamine hardener (equal parts of both). If you have never tried this, this stuff is amazi...
First I tape blocks in that I have sized for the position I want the lid to sit I then tape the lid in place. Next is to mark out and drill for the hinge pins I think the pictures show my process fairly well. If you have any questions or suggestions please leave them and hopefully we will all learn a little from each other. Next stop is get the lids opening correctly and then handles. Thanks for taking a look.
Here is a coffee cup my daughter picked out for me while at Discovery Cove, Orlando, FL. I thought you would like to see my inspiration for this part of the project. Above is the carving filled with epoxy and sanded. Now to clean out air bubble craters and epoxy again. I love this blue, it has a metallic flake in it that looks great. Until next time, Joey
I think the pictures tell all. I almost forgot to do this. This is the second layer of epoxy. I take extra care in filling the pockets left by air bubbles. I use a toothpick to push the epoxy into the craters. I have a spatula I made from a piece of pine that has a rounded edge. I can post a in anyone wants to see it. I use this as a squeegee to force the epoxy into the craters also. This can be tricky because if you wait to long it gets real stick and messes things up. ...
I start with the lid already sized for the box. This one is purpleheart. I know, it’s almost impossible to carve, but it’s what the customer ordered. So I find a way. Next is to design your inlay After the drawing is done, I cover it with scotch tape or box tape Then comes the mirror and xacto knife After my stencil is made I transfer it to my lid blank With my trusty chip carving knife, I carve in my design. Since purpleheart is so hard I chose to o...
The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is “Don’t get any on you !” and the second one is “Don’t get any on your handles !” Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it. I’ve used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I’ve developed a number of procedure...
Two questions for the woodworkers who are also chemists: I have some thick CA glue, so thick that I can no longer use it. Now I know that I can add acetone as a thinner to normal thick CA glue to make thin/thinner CA glue, but can I also add acetone to the thickened thick CA glue to reconstitute it? I have already tried this and have used the results on some jigs, but my concern is more whether this reconstituted CA glue will have its full strength, such that is is suitable for real proj...
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