Bit by bit and either with a palm sander or by hand, the table has been sanded to a nice smooth finish. 180 grit was that last I used and I felt that is sufficient for this project. I am quite happy with the progress and the way it looks. Now for the next step and looking for a bit of advice. I have researched as much as I can about applying a epoxy bar finish. I think it was on a youtube post that someone prefinished their table with tung oil. I am thinking of doing the same thing prio...
Overview Floor installation is pretty simple. Considerations include waterproofing, support, and water drainage. Waterproofing I previously fiberglassed the bottom side of the floor with 2.3 ounce fiberglass cloth and two light coats of epoxy. I used 6 ounce cloth for the side you step on with two coats of epoxy also. The top side of the floor will also be painted with flat green paint. Support The span between each rib is about two feet and 1/4” plywood would break wh...
Overview The plan calls for solid wood runners with a layer of metal applied so that the boat tracks better and also is protected for the inevitable dragging that will occur. I used white oak and 1/8” thick by 1” wide aluminum. Making the Runner My runners are 59 1/2” long, 1” wide, and 1 1/4” tall. White oak is incredibly tough and rot resistant. There is a 6” long taper cut at each end so they don’t get hung up. The plan calls for 1/4...
Overview Fiberglassing the deck is more complicated than the hull since the cockpit meets the deck at such a sharp angle. I completed the prep work for the deck at the same time I worked on the hull. The remaining steps to fiberglass the deck include fitting the cloth, applying epoxy, sanding, and fixing mistakes. Fitting the Cloth I chose to fiberglass the deck using only four pieces of cloth. I’m not sure I will use this technique on the next two boats. It was a challenge...
Overview Fiberglassing the hull involves prep work, fitting the fiberglass cloth, applying several coats of epoxy, and sanding. Prep Work Whatever condition the hull is when you fiberglass it, is the condition it will stay, since you don’t want to sand through the fiberglass. All the corners of the boat must be rounded to a minimum of 1/4” radius because fiberglass won’t lay well across a corner that it is tighter. Outside corners can be routered or filed. Inside...
Overview This is the stage where it really starts to look like a boat! With the the interior sealed and the final fitting of the anchor pole hole, collar, and sleeve complete, the deck can be installed. The sequence is similar to installing the hull panels with the added step of lining up the the through-deck hole for the anchor pole sleeve. Fitting the Bow and Stern Deck Panels The bow and stern deck panels are fastened around a curved rib and this causes the seams along the cockp...
The Requirement I moved back to MN in June 2014, after nearly 30 years away, and my brother quickly introduced me to duck hunting. We’re not on any of the major flyways here, so we need to put everything in our favor possible. We read about the advantages of layout boats in providing maximum concealment from wary ducks and talked about it in the duck blind all last season. Our hunting party consists of my brother, my nephew, and me and we decided to build three one-man layout boat...
This is how I typically fill a knot or defect, especially in Walnut I will use 5 minute 2 part epoxy mixed with epoxy pigment. Thanks as always for watching! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=af4bgBRmrCU
I filmed the build on my YouTube Channel. Please check it out! Please like, share, and if you enjoyed the video subscribe! http://youtu.be/ACLFMAfV1fk I recently added a Clearvue Cyclone dust collector to my shop. I plumbed it completely with 6” and 4” PVC piping. I needed a way to close off each branch to maximize the performance of the dust collector. Commercially available plastic blast gates are way to cheap and clog easily. The metal blast gates that solve this issue are p...
The tachometer came in yesterday. Now, I’m ready to start working on determining the pulley sizes. I did read, understand and follow all the instructions that came with the my tachometer. After putting the refective sticker on the flywheel of the motor, I was able to determine that the maximum speed of the motor is 6200 RPM’s. That speed is about twice as fast as I need it so my pulley ratio should be around 1:2. I found a pulley calculator online and I have an idea of the size...
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