I want to seal the end grain on several redwood Adirondack chairs and planter boxes to slow down the rotting process and other moisture damage. Didn’t want to buy expensive sealing epoxy just for this. Tested System Three Epoxy with #2 Hardener on the end grain of four different species. Fresh mixed epoxy is quite runny and it kept soaking into the end grain of all samples for about an hour or so; I applied more epoxy of the same mix a few times over an hour. After about two hours...
I have never been a real believer in the use of biscuits in the glue up of large table tops or wider sections in general. Especially where end grain and long grain must be glued together. However, I have never used them either. I’m very old school and have always defaulted to Mortise and tenon and have often pinned those joints with dowels. It strong, its reliable, if time and proper procedures are used to make the joints properly. That’s the downfall this construction method i...
I was asked by several newbies if I would take some time to do a blog on building cutting boards that will cover the basics that may not get covered in the blogs/forums that detail how to do the real fancy boards that we all aspire to. So I’m going to try my best to hit the simple things that a novice trying to learn on their own may not think about or not realize until after they’ve made the mistake. It’s been a very long time since I’ve taken on a task like this – so please feel free to hel...
My Journey As A Creative Designer - Woodworking and Beyond #1241: Wonderful Gifts from a Dear Friend
Today is going to be a very busy, but fun day! I worked yesterday on my new project and got much of the base things done on it and today is the “fun” part of letting my brushes fly and make it into something special. I hope to have things close to being ‘finished’ by the end of the day – at least to a certain point. Our ‘work day’ was cut a bit short yesterday because we went to Keith’s moms for an incredible lobster dinner. Keith’s s...
I have posted my machine on here a couple times and kept promising that I was going to get it to the point where I would have plans ready for it. This has turned out to be a very daunting task . At first glance of the machine it does not look too overwhelming. But, when you break it down there are many many parts and details to make this thing work the way it does. Before I go any farther though there is one person on here I want to thank for all the help . I would not have gotten this far wi...
I have an end grain cutting board made of purple heart and yellow heart. The blocks are squares, 1-1/8” square, about 1-1/2” long/thick, glued up with mixed patterns (making letters). The board was treated with mineral oil. It appears that the yellow heart pieces have swollen from absorbing the mineral oil, and have busting some of the glue joints. Has anyone ever experienced this type of problem? Thanks for reading and your comments. Kevin
Yesterday I was a little busy…. I ripped and glued up some blanks for some boards…no pics but they were just simple laminations… Today when the glue was set I took them out of the clamps and made the secondary cuts and got ready for the next glue up… Here are a few Camphor Laurel end grain boards.. Not glued up yet.. A smaller version to go as a pair… maybe… Can’t wait for the glue up… and sanding… then a coat of oil to pop...
In response to some questions about how this pattern is made… I’m not sure if this is the only method, but here’s how I did it. Here’s the original project I posted: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53452 Hint: When you look at the board, long ways going left to right, every row is a different size, but every group of 2 rows are all the same size! Solution: First you rip strips like you would for a regular end grain board, but in a progression of widths from l...
When making end grain cutting boards, it is imperative to have flat, square and evenly thick pieces.. the initial milling for the first glue up is easy…here is a video of milling timber Once glued up… There may be a small movement and you need to sand the glued up board flat… Here is the secret... I found that if I crosscut the pieces first, the sanding is simple… Sand on the drum sander on one side and then flip and adjust the height by 1/4 turn and sand a...
As the finishing touch to the boards of the class… I have counter-bored holes at each corner. The black rubber feet are attached with stainless steel screws.. The counter bore will stop the rubber feet from dragging the screws out if it is moved sideways… Well I am glad that this is finally finished… I know it took what seems an eternity and I do appreciate those who followed along… I have already had two photos of finished boards sent and I would like all tho...
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