The goal is to get a finish similar to this from groovyman6. Sample boads are rift sawn white oak, first dyed with Transtint Brown Mahogany, either at 1 to 32 dilution (two thinner bands) or at 1 to 15 (three thicker bands): (photo taken in the shade) After the dye dried, I lightly sanded the darker bands with either grit 600 (the top one) or 220 (the bottom one), then applied Minwax Tung Oil Finish per instructions and then, next day, one board was stained with Minwax Mahogany Gel S...
This was a fun experimental project. I attempted to use a clothing dye as a stain to see what different colors I could create while still being able to see the grain pattern. I also laminated plywood pieces together to see what effect could be made with the different layers being visible. Check out the video to see the end results!
For those who follow this thread, you know we have been struggling on dying bone. We may have found the solution, at least one of them. Here is a test piece that seems to be dyed all the way through To help the dye to penetrate all the way through the bone I decided to dye the pieces already cut. I had my papers already prepared from the start waiting for the solution The intended green bone pieces were highlighted in green (of course) on the drawing. I cut ...
Part of a current project that turned out better than expected. Months back I took some padauk scraps and soaked them in lacquer thinner to make a dye, this is the first time I’ve used it. This picture didn’t turn out well but the color is a nice reddish-orange and completely transparent. Scroll down to see a short video.
For my workbench i needed a tall stool for more accurate work and just a place to rest. This is a descripition on how i made this project. Searching LJ i found these two fine projects:- Having a fascination with all-things-Japanense (having both worked in a sushi restaurant and done karate for several years) these Singer-songrwriters chairs by Junji impressed me.- This post on shop stools by shipwright described a interesting method for dying oak black with steel wool dissolved in wineg...
For our best pieces, we use sawn veneer. It is usually 10 time as expensive as sliced, but it is a better quality product. When the veneer is sliced, it is often steamed or heated and the shearing of the knife damage the structure of the wood. When the veneer is sawn, it is just like solid wood, just thinner. Patrick Edwards did a good blog entry on sawn veneer with a video of one of the last veneer sawing comapny, near Paris, Georges et Fils. To read the article it is here. An...
As many of you have seen I do dye on wood. I use the Trans tint dye from Woodcraft. I dye many burl pieces as it helps to bring out the character of the wood. There are many ways to apply dye but I like to put it on right out of the bottle. The first coat is the base coat and it goes on rather strong, out of the bottle. I will let it dry and then go back and sand the entire surface with 400 grit. In doing so I will sand back certain areas almost back to the wood. These will be the ar...
Well, here it is almost 10 months since I’ve done any work on this project. It’s mostly because I was taking a night class in preparation for the Nursing program this fall, and on top of it, my Uncle has introduced me to fly fishing which has occupied almost all of my free time in the spring and summer so far. ...Since these panels are solid wood, to account for movement, I finished the panels before gluing the case up so that none of the panels will have unfinished edges during t...
When I made the wall hanging, Dance on a Volcano I considered at one point making it into an EZ Mitre box. I liked the pattern so much as it was that it stayed that way. I go past it on the Stairway to Devon, every day and it always makes me think of a box alternative. So I set about designing one, using TurboCAD to 3D model it. I came up with this. My initial thoughts were to make it in solid wood, much like the original using; Sycamore, Pau Amarello, Yew, Padauk, Purpleheart and Ebon...
I decided to see if a glue joint would present an adequate barrier to dye. Thus enabling me to cut and glue a pattern in a light wood and dye only the section I want black. I cut a scrap of Sycamore, 3mm thick, length ways, re-glued it, width ways and re-glued it thus having made absolutely sure the glue covered every square millimetre of the joint faces. I then sanded both sides flat in the drum sander, along the grain, 150 grit. To get this You can see the joint lines, just...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1659 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1684 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- dbhost - 400 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 281 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 229 entries
- Betsy - 225 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- stefang - 206 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 200 entries
- robscastle - 189 entries
- Rustic - 189 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 188 entries
- Chris Davis - 184 entries