A quickie post I didn’t mention making the red Oak pieces to latch behind the lower lip of the cabinet before. These are just big enough to fit below the lower shelf . The article in the magazine mentions making these the full length to subdue expansion, but I have breadboard ends for that. I measured and marked where the batten guides need to go, with a brain fart or two. You will probably notice a few holes in a picture or two where I mounted them where they didnt need to be. ...
The two previous images are from 4 weeks ago before i left for work. The back was done up with pine i had on hand. Unfortuently as i was installing the last couple boards i noticed they had developed some twist and that i had a knot too close to an edge. I decided while at work i would replace with my remaining poplar that i was saving for another project.After returning home and replacing the upper 3 planks. Then i proceeded to glue up panels for my top and the fall front.The finished glu...
After i finished the previous steps i decided, despite what Schwarz says about it, to put some finish on the inside. No pictures, figured no need. I masked off all the edges i didnt want anything on, then applied roughly 2-3 coats. Really all i did was use up the last of my Zinnzer clear waxed shellac, will apply some wax in the future. But onto what this part of the blog is about. I bought, off ebay a year or 2 ago, a decent Stanley #45 with a basic set of cutters and most of the parts...
Broke out the eggbeater drill, brace with countersink bit, and a screw driver. Marked out my holes with combo square and awl. Drove in some #10 1 1/4 slotted screws by hand, ended up with a blister. . 4 per side per shelf, overkill i believe, planned on only 3 but apparently my subconscious kicked in and made me do 4. they are all clocked inline with the grain for you ocd individuals (wish i had some Citric acid to remove the zinc plating) I shoulda went with my first idea and coun...
measuring/marking out the dados for the shelvesmarked out the bottom shelf 8.5” above the dovetail baseline with a knifeused the shelf to mark the other side of dado in the same manner after cutting a “knifewall” Used my Millers Falls router plane set at 3/8” depth to cut the baseline of dado didnt get any pictures of cutting out the dados but same process as described in Paul Sellers video here, and in Chris Albees dutch chest videos here using the router pl...
It started with me cutting my sides, bottom, and shelves/dividers to rough length with my xcut D8 on sawbench, then cleaning/squaring up the ends with my Stanley #4 1/2 and the sides with my #5 1/2 and #8. I then ganged sides up in my moxon and go in house and refresh my memory on layout with Megan Fitzpatricks youtube video . I then proceed to mark out my tails and to cut them. I ran into some trouble, what little practice i had with cutting some dovetails was with completely seaso...
I needed a few things to happen before i started this build. The chest joinery, while fairly simple, required me to have a few fixtures and tools i did not have. Since i have full intention to do this with hand tools, this required a few jigs as well. One of the big parts of making this chest was the Dovetailed bottom. I have never attempted to cut a dovetail before this, though have always wanted to try. I did not have a true dovetail saw, though not necessarily needed. I have a couple ch...
(photo stolen from below mentioned blog, for inspiration) Since i seen C Shwarz blog about his Dutch Tool Chest i have been planning to make one. I like the Anarchist Tool Chest as well but the idea of having to bend over to get my tools out did not appeal to me. Wall hung tool racks I like but the constant humidity/temperature changes where I live plays hell on my tools. I waited for the Pop Wood article to come out in Oct 2013. I looked it over and went to the Blue store and picke...
The last few items are optional and aren’t nearly as difficult to position and dimension. Top-section Fixture: pencil holder/spacerThe plane divider lattice for the jointer includes a large gap in front of it. So to fill this space, and to keep the plane from sliding back and forth like a dinner bowl in the galley of a ship in high seas, I made a spacer. But rather than simply cutting a piece of ½” thick stock for it, and wasting the space, I decided to make a holder for pens, tweezers bru...
For those of you who enjoy making lots of mistakes and finding out after hours of work that your tool placement won’t work, I highly recommend that you dive right in to making your rack and don’t bother with a prototype. I don’t enjoy that process, so I very much bothered with a prototype. This allowed me to firm up a number of dimensions while simultaneously avoiding nasty mistakes. I began by laying out all the tools I wanted to put in the rack onto my workbench. Then, starting from t...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1635 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1660 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 279 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 228 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 198 entries
- robscastle - 188 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 188 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- Chris Davis - 184 entries