Mitred Breadboards - In order to run a bull-nose around the perimeter of the kneeling platform top, I thought it prudent to attach breadboards. Given that I do not want any end-grain showing, the breadboards need to be mitred. So … with my highly detailed drawing in hand … ... I get to work! The breadboards are simply 1 inch strips of 3/4 cherry with 1/4 inch x 5/16 inch grooves along one edge and a 45° mitred end. There are also mortises in the floor of the gro...
I wasn’t satisfied with the fit that I talked about in the last entry so I called my mentor Dick. Dick is the best sharpener, dovetail cutter, and jointer that I know, and he came over. The two sides went together but still had a gap of 1/16 in a couple of places. After a while, Dick thought that I needed a miter jack or we could make one. So we made essentially a guide that wrapped the work piece on three sides to guide a chisel. Shaving very fine amounts and pushing the chisel at...
The leg vise chop’s wood is beech (I just have one big thick beech board and so I use it when I need some hardwood). .First some rough cuts: .Then cleaning up: (you can see here template I used to mark curves of the chop) (and this is my cleanup kit) .Ready for parallel guide mortise: .Parallel guide mortise: first saw cut then cleaning with the chisel (and a block of wood as a guide). .Dry fit: .Drawboring: .Closeups of drawboring results:...
Finally I got to drawboring point. Dowels were ready, drawboring pins were ready, M&T on the legs and stretchers were ready. Drilling holes for drawboring didn’t cause any problem. Since I wasn’t sure my drawboring technique was good enough I used glue and clamps to get best possible results (and I didn’t care about chances to disassemble legs in the future). And you know, the drawboring started with “the good” part: I heard a quite a bit...
my first adventure into the wonderful world of DRAWBORING was a great experience. it was not difficult and the results are amazing. drawboring is pegging a tenon into a mortise with the peg-hole in the tenon shifted slightly toward the shoulder causing the peg to tighten up the joint I used red oak 1/2” dowels from lowes. I took my time going through all their stock to choose the straightest grain dowels. the ideal would be to make my own from riven white oak, but the red oak work...
A lot’s happened lately! I pegged the long stretchers. Funny story. In my mind, the pegs in Schwarz’s Roubo were 5/8”. I didn’t have a 5/8” bit, but I had a very nice 3/4” one, so I used that and made 3/4” pegs. I figure, maybe they’re a touch bigger than the ones Chris used, but hey, no biggie. Just the other day I realized: Chris used 3/8” pegs!!! Haha, oh well, the Schwarz has said that you can’t overbuild a workbench, right? ...
So I followed Gye's advice and followed Kari's advice and whipped out my block plane to fashion me some pegs for drawboring the tenons on my stretchers. I originally was considering making a dowel plate, but Kari in her post suggests that this works best for short dowels. All of mine are at least 6” long. So anyway, the block plane was a bit slow at first, on the corners, but it quickly picked up. I just started at one end until it fit in my test hole and wherever it hung up, I k...
So brief background is that about a 18 months ago, I bought a load of lumber off ebay. While there, I ended up also buying 350 BF of flatsawn white ash for $100. I figured, even if it ends up being ‘test’ pieces and shop projects, it would still be worth it. Fast forward to recently, and I’ve been planning to build a new bench, and I’ve pretty much decided on a Roubo. I picked up the lovely Benchcrafted tail/wagon vise, a german bench screw, and some holdfasts. ...
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