View the full blog with photos here! When someone, woodworkers and non-woodworkers alike, hear the term ‘dovetail’ they usually do not imagine a dove’s tail. The picture something similar to the photo on the right. Dovetails are generally either what can be called ‘half-blind’, or ‘through’. In the furniture my classmates, myself, and other artisans create, you can see this joint used very routinely. Drawers, especially, are a dovetail gold min...
1, 2 – skip a few – 99, 100 – skip a few more – 175, 176 dovetails later, quite a bit of sanding and the dresser (or is it a chest of drawers?) is ready for it’s paint job. There are only two parts left to make – the drawer pulls and the tills that will go in the small drawers. I’m figuring that the pulls and tills will keep me busy while the paint dries. The inside will be finished with shellac. I only have another three days at school for the summe...
I sharpened my chisel for the second try and decided to stay with the pine for no. 2; Reason 1: The free pallet hard wood needs to be cut and planed to size (for which I didn’t have time today) and the pine is just ready to use. Reason 2: If I can learn to make a dovetail with softwood, then it will be easier in hardwood. This logic is based on my experience with welding. I learned to weld on 1.6mm square tubing and welding angle irons and other thicker material was very easy. Furthermo...
Hello. With the shell and lid of the chest complete the next task on the agenda is building the skirts. The skirts are essentially moldings that protect the shell of the chest from damage and help seal the lid off from dust. Though unlike normal moldings and skirts on many other chests, the tool chest Chris describes has skirts which are dovetailed at the corners. This creates a skirt that will not open up due to seasonal humidity changes. The dovetails are also oriented so that the tails ...
Hello. So at this point the shell parts are all dimensioned and ready for joinery. So I began by marking each board to orient them: front, back, left, right. Then I set my marking gauge to the thickness of the shell parts, then scribed with that setting across each board’s end (make sure to scribe the edges of the tail board, but not on the pin board). Next I set my dividers to lay out the tail spacing. After a few tries I got them set to produce 12 tails with just a ha...
Top joins the sides with half-blinds, so let’s clamp up and get started. Mark and cut the tails. No dovetail jigs… It’s for strength, doesn’t have to be perfect as a shop joint. Chop the waste. Gauge setting for the ‘inset’ of the pinboard, then balance the tail board to tranfer tail lines: I did place a straightedge alongside the setup to ensure the layoit ot the two pieces stayed ‘square.’ Sawing pins...
I ran across the ”Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails” article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking. The article suggests drilling holes in your bench to accomodate pipe clamps to hold down a guide board. I REALLY like the clamp idea but even though I revere a bench as a consumable, I’d rather not drill THAT big of holes in it. I’ve come up with an alternate solution that does not require any new holes in your bench. This means it can also be used in whome...
Hi Everyone, Well, I promised that I would do this. Here is a video I did at the castle last night. The woods are mahogany and poplar. I believe that this is a realistic way to make dovetails for a quick box or drawer. I always take a bit more time and care on finer projects. Hope you enjoy!
So heres the finished thing. You can see it open in the pictures on the bottom. Better pictures soon to come. The drawers are an important part of my design because of my mother. When I was younger she taught my older brother and myself how to play canasta, and always had two nice decks of cards to play, unfortunately we were not the cleanest while playing and the cards almost always got ruined. Eventually she started to hide the cards. It came to the point where she would burry the c...
So here it is, the final glue up. I over clamped to be safe, not in the sense of clamping pressure but as far as where I was clamping. This glue up entailed gluing all 4 sets of tails and pins with the mitered front (all the same piece) of the carcass as well as gluing in the center of the floating panel. By glueing the center of the panel I control the movement of expansion and contraction to both edges, ensuring the gaps always stay very close to the same, also keeping them as smal...
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