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Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'dovetails'

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View andyboy's profile

Nakashima Night Stand part 3 #1: Nakashima Night Stand. part 1

03-28-2013 07:58 PM by andyboy | 5 comments »

It was nice using some harder timber for a change. Tasmanian Blackwood that I found on our river bank after a strong wind in 2009. I also changed from my usual 1:6 angle for softwoods to the preferred 1:8 for hardwoods.Very pleased with the results!!!

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View RaggedKerf's profile

[Dovetail Box] Adding chip carving...

03-13-2013 12:07 AM by RaggedKerf | 5 comments »

Flush with my modest progress in the last post, I decided to jazz up the little box some before attaching the bottom (which I have already cut and have waiting for installation). I drew out some lines and squares on the front of the box and made a nice little border on the top and bottom. Here’s the first shot, after I had already completed the top border. It went surprisingly fast. Took about 10 minutes to lay it out and 5 minutes to carve it. Then I drew the pattern for the bot...

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View Tyler Hicken's profile

Learning Dovetails!

10-05-2012 09:13 PM by Tyler Hicken | 5 comments »

Here is my first attempt at hand cut dovetails. Having never used a handsaw or chisels much I am not disappointed. I need give my chisels a good sharpening, remember to cut in the waste, and use some wood that doesn’t just fall apart on me. Thanks for looking and any advice is welcome!

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View Mike Ogden's profile

Dovetail Information #1: Introduction

08-21-2012 04:02 AM by Mike Ogden | 0 comments »

View the full blog with photos here! When someone, woodworkers and non-woodworkers alike, hear the term ‘dovetail’ they usually do not imagine a dove’s tail. The picture something similar to the photo on the right. Dovetails are generally either what can be called ‘half-blind’, or ‘through’. In the furniture my classmates, myself, and other artisans create, you can see this joint used very routinely. Drawers, especially, are a dovetail gold min...

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View hammcrafted's profile

Seven Drawer Dresser #2: Ready for the Finishing Room

08-18-2012 04:53 PM by hammcrafted | 2 comments »

1, 2 – skip a few – 99, 100 – skip a few more – 175, 176 dovetails later, quite a bit of sanding and the dresser (or is it a chest of drawers?) is ready for it’s paint job. There are only two parts left to make – the drawer pulls and the tills that will go in the small drawers. I’m figuring that the pulls and tills will keep me busy while the paint dries. The inside will be finished with shellac. I only have another three days at school for the summe...

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View George_SA's profile

My dovetail journey #2: My second hand cut Dovetail

07-09-2012 08:50 PM by George_SA | 7 comments »

I sharpened my chisel for the second try and decided to stay with the pine for no. 2; Reason 1: The free pallet hard wood needs to be cut and planed to size (for which I didn’t have time today) and the pine is just ready to use. Reason 2: If I can learn to make a dovetail with softwood, then it will be easier in hardwood. This logic is based on my experience with welding. I learned to weld on 1.6mm square tubing and welding angle irons and other thicker material was very easy. Furthermo...

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View CartersWhittling's profile

Tool Chest #6: Skirts

06-16-2012 04:10 AM by CartersWhittling | 14 comments »

Hello. With the shell and lid of the chest complete the next task on the agenda is building the skirts. The skirts are essentially moldings that protect the shell of the chest from damage and help seal the lid off from dust. Though unlike normal moldings and skirts on many other chests, the tool chest Chris describes has skirts which are dovetailed at the corners. This creates a skirt that will not open up due to seasonal humidity changes. The dovetails are also oriented so that the tails ...

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View CartersWhittling's profile

Tool Chest #4: Dovetailing the Shell

05-06-2012 02:37 AM by CartersWhittling | 14 comments »

Hello. So at this point the shell parts are all dimensioned and ready for joinery. So I began by marking each board to orient them: front, back, left, right. Then I set my marking gauge to the thickness of the shell parts, then scribed with that setting across each board’s end (make sure to scribe the edges of the tail board, but not on the pin board). Next I set my dividers to lay out the tail spacing. After a few tries I got them set to produce 12 tails with just a ha...

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View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile (online now)

Wall Hung Tool Cabinet #4: Some Carcase Joinery

04-01-2012 03:23 AM by Smitty_Cabinetshop | 18 comments »

Top joins the sides with half-blinds, so let’s clamp up and get started. Mark and cut the tails. No dovetail jigs… It’s for strength, doesn’t have to be perfect as a shop joint. Chop the waste. Gauge setting for the ‘inset’ of the pinboard, then balance the tail board to tranfer tail lines: I did place a straightedge alongside the setup to ensure the layoit ot the two pieces stayed ‘square.’ Sawing pins...

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View rance's profile

Virtual Designs in Sketchup #14: Clamp for cutting Dovetails

01-24-2012 11:47 PM by rance | 9 comments »

I ran across the ”Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails” article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking. The article suggests drilling holes in your bench to accomodate pipe clamps to hold down a guide board. I REALLY like the clamp idea but even though I revere a bench as a consumable, I’d rather not drill THAT big of holes in it. I’ve come up with an alternate solution that does not require any new holes in your bench. This means it can also be used in whome...

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