Note to my readers—-this is the secret project I’ve mentioned a few times. It has consumed my shop time since February. That’s why it’s been so slow on the blog for the last few months. Now that it has been delivered, I can post the details. Over the past week I have spent all my free time in the shop cutting more dovetails. I have, I am happy to report, improved my abilities and speed. The first joint, from the last post, took about 2.5 hours. The next one on...
It was nice using some harder timber for a change. Tasmanian Blackwood that I found on our river bank after a strong wind in 2009. I also changed from my usual 1:6 angle for softwoods to the preferred 1:8 for hardwoods.Very pleased with the results!!!
Flush with my modest progress in the last post, I decided to jazz up the little box some before attaching the bottom (which I have already cut and have waiting for installation). I drew out some lines and squares on the front of the box and made a nice little border on the top and bottom. Here’s the first shot, after I had already completed the top border. It went surprisingly fast. Took about 10 minutes to lay it out and 5 minutes to carve it. Then I drew the pattern for the bot...
Here is my first attempt at hand cut dovetails. Having never used a handsaw or chisels much I am not disappointed. I need give my chisels a good sharpening, remember to cut in the waste, and use some wood that doesn’t just fall apart on me. Thanks for looking and any advice is welcome!
View the full blog with photos here! When someone, woodworkers and non-woodworkers alike, hear the term ‘dovetail’ they usually do not imagine a dove’s tail. The picture something similar to the photo on the right. Dovetails are generally either what can be called ‘half-blind’, or ‘through’. In the furniture my classmates, myself, and other artisans create, you can see this joint used very routinely. Drawers, especially, are a dovetail gold min...
1, 2 – skip a few – 99, 100 – skip a few more – 175, 176 dovetails later, quite a bit of sanding and the dresser (or is it a chest of drawers?) is ready for it’s paint job. There are only two parts left to make – the drawer pulls and the tills that will go in the small drawers. I’m figuring that the pulls and tills will keep me busy while the paint dries. The inside will be finished with shellac. I only have another three days at school for the summe...
I sharpened my chisel for the second try and decided to stay with the pine for no. 2; Reason 1: The free pallet hard wood needs to be cut and planed to size (for which I didn’t have time today) and the pine is just ready to use. Reason 2: If I can learn to make a dovetail with softwood, then it will be easier in hardwood. This logic is based on my experience with welding. I learned to weld on 1.6mm square tubing and welding angle irons and other thicker material was very easy. Furthermo...
Hello. With the shell and lid of the chest complete the next task on the agenda is building the skirts. The skirts are essentially moldings that protect the shell of the chest from damage and help seal the lid off from dust. Though unlike normal moldings and skirts on many other chests, the tool chest Chris describes has skirts which are dovetailed at the corners. This creates a skirt that will not open up due to seasonal humidity changes. The dovetails are also oriented so that the tails ...
Hello. So at this point the shell parts are all dimensioned and ready for joinery. So I began by marking each board to orient them: front, back, left, right. Then I set my marking gauge to the thickness of the shell parts, then scribed with that setting across each board’s end (make sure to scribe the edges of the tail board, but not on the pin board). Next I set my dividers to lay out the tail spacing. After a few tries I got them set to produce 12 tails with just a ha...
Top joins the sides with half-blinds, so let’s clamp up and get started. Mark and cut the tails. No dovetail jigs… It’s for strength, doesn’t have to be perfect as a shop joint. Chop the waste. Gauge setting for the ‘inset’ of the pinboard, then balance the tail board to tranfer tail lines: I did place a straightedge alongside the setup to ensure the layoit ot the two pieces stayed ‘square.’ Sawing pins...
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