We have been thinking about replacing the old entrance door. The door is really old and painted white. Besides, the door jambs, the threshold and sidelight show signs of wear and moisture damage; they are a bit out of square, the joints have become a bit loose too. This old door is sturdy and heavy and we want to replace it with something similar, that is, a stave core laminated door to withstand the sun, wind and water. While I learn how to build new door jambs, threshold, sidelight, a...
I’ve finally gotten the door for the cellar to work well. Two chevy tahoe hatch lifts mounted in tandem provide just the right lift to make opening and closing the door a nearly one finger operation. This door probably weighs in at 100+ lbs so these piston lifts were mandatory and boy do they work well. I ordered Tahoe ones because I have a Tahoe and I could take exact measurements on the ones on the SUV before I ordered them from Amazon. They cost about $20 each.If you wanted to see ho...
My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer #1127: Finishing up Writing and a Great Woodworking Project
Good morning to you all! I am still finishing up the writing on my new patterns, but I am making headway and should be finished soon. I did want to share a great blog with you though that may interest you all. It it from my friend Jim Barry from Woodworkers Workshop . Jim always has great innovative ideas for using scroll saw and woodworking plans in unique ways. His blogs are full of great ideas and many of them include instructional videos so you can see just what he is up to. ...
We’re slowly changing the decor of our summer home to G&G. The newest project is a door to our bedroom. We have a door there now but it’s an exterior door with glass which doesn’t provide much privacy. I bought some mahogany door rail and stile material at an auction. It’s made of 5/16” skins on a plywood core. I also bought some rough 4/4 mahogany which I’m not that happy with but I only need it for molding and possibly the door frame. I cut...
If you are one of the fortunate few woodworkers who have an air conditioned workshop, then this is just fun reading for you. For the rest of us, who work out of garages or buildings with roll up doors then this applies.My workshop is in a two car garage with an 18 ft. wide door. In the summertime trying to work is hard because of the flying insects that come in to buzz about and land on an arm or leg, and starting drilling for blood right as I’m running a board through the table saw. ...
Mortising the HingesHanging doors involves a mixture of precise work and some trial and error. The first step is to choose a hinge and then mortise the case frame to receive the hinge. A common approach for hinge placement is to locate the top of the upper hinge even with the bottom of the upper rail and locate the bottom of the lower hinge even with the top of the lower rail of the door frame. I should have thought ahead and routed these mortises before assembling the case. However, I fo...
I need a new bench. i scored a solid core door to use as a benchtop.
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Finally hanging the doors is the next step in this long process. I stand my doors in the opening they will go and put them on a flat scrap of wood, just enough to give the clearance under the door that I want. I use about 1/8” – 3/16” up off the floor. Then I mark the top and bottom of the hinge recesses I’ve already cut out on the doors. I tape a hinge onto the door frame at the correct spot and trace around it with a pencil: Then I carefully cut around the...
Time to put hinges on the doors. I’m going to use 3 hinges per door, so I mark with pencil by tracing around where they will sit right on the door edge. I then use a sharp knife and cut the outline out to no more than a depth of 1/16”. Then I get my hinge and set it on the base of my trim router which has a straight bit in it. The cutting depth of the bit (the amount protruding out of the base) is set as the thickness of the hinge, which in my case is about 1/16”...
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