Mortising the HingesHanging doors involves a mixture of precise work and some trial and error. The first step is to choose a hinge and then mortise the case frame to receive the hinge. A common approach for hinge placement is to locate the top of the upper hinge even with the bottom of the upper rail and locate the bottom of the lower hinge even with the top of the lower rail of the door frame. I should have thought ahead and routed these mortises before assembling the case. However, I fo...
I need a new bench. i scored a solid core door to use as a benchtop.
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Finally hanging the doors is the next step in this long process. I stand my doors in the opening they will go and put them on a flat scrap of wood, just enough to give the clearance under the door that I want. I use about 1/8” – 3/16” up off the floor. Then I mark the top and bottom of the hinge recesses I’ve already cut out on the doors. I tape a hinge onto the door frame at the correct spot and trace around it with a pencil: Then I carefully cut around the...
Time to put hinges on the doors. I’m going to use 3 hinges per door, so I mark with pencil by tracing around where they will sit right on the door edge. I then use a sharp knife and cut the outline out to no more than a depth of 1/16”. Then I get my hinge and set it on the base of my trim router which has a straight bit in it. The cutting depth of the bit (the amount protruding out of the base) is set as the thickness of the hinge, which in my case is about 1/16”...
Gluing the large door stumped me for a while, as I tried to figure out the order of gluing the parts together. Because there is a center stile (vertical piece) and that piece has tenons on each end, I have to glue that center stile into the top and bottom before I put the two outer side stiles on. After much thought, this is the order I glued the pieces together. First I glued the two right-side rails to the center stile as seen here in red: Then I glued the two left-side ...
Now that the parts of the doors are ready for gluing up there are a couple things to do first. Because the tops of the doors will have plexiglass panels as “windows” I need to take off one side of the groove I made. This will allow the window to sit in from one side. I don’t want to glue the plexi window in the door just in case it gets broken sometime and trapped in there. So I will take off half of the wood and then put the plexi in and fill in around the edges with ...
Before I cut my rails to length I make sure the exact size I need. I won’t go into the fractions, etc, because no one will have the same sizes as I have anyway, but it’s important to check that the doors will fit the opening with the hinge and a space between. I laid my pieces out before putting the tenons on the ends of the rails. I also made sure my pieces of “panelling” would fit into the grooves in the rails. Here is one of the rails with the haunched t...
My pine is all ready to go. Knotty Pine is difficult to work with because there are often holes and cracks in the knots. I try and work around that as much as possible, but I love the look of pine, and I feel the knots just add character. For the panels in my doors I was going to put 1/4” pine faced plywood. In my local city I could not find 1/4” ply that had two good sides which I need for the doors because they are seen from both sides. Instead I bought tongue and groov...
For the opening between my front room and the larger workshop part, I have about 56” across. I have decided that I just want to use the left door (when looking into the workshop) on a regular basis and have the right door bolted shut most of the time. That way, just for going in and out, I will use the one door. When moving larger objects I can easily use both doors. I’m making two equal sized doors, each with three equal sized divisions. So each door is about 28” wide. ...
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