LumberJocks

Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'diy'

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De plane! de plane!

08-19-2018 10:45 PM by Dave Rutan | 5 comments »

I wanted to try making a small-ish hand plane with a spare cheap chisel that I had around. The body is maple and the bar is brass rod. The blade is from a 1” chisel with the handle cut off. The wedge is also maple. The finish is linseed oil. Mandatory glueup photo:

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Mahogany twin screw clamp

08-06-2018 12:18 AM by Dave Rutan | 7 comments »

I’ve thought of making one of these for fun, so today I finally did it. Who knows what great uses I’ll find for this clamp?The wood is mahogany and the finish is boiled linseed oil. This is an old style clamp that does not have reverse threads on half of the rod. It may be a bit dodgy to use, but it was made by me. I originally intended to make 3 of these, but I fudged the wooden parts for two of them.

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View OiBowyer's profile

Home Spalting #1: What is spalting?

06-07-2018 11:01 PM by OiBowyer | 0 comments »

Spalting is the decay of wood by fungal attack. At this point I should say that most of what I have learned about this subject has come from: classes and instruction from Dr. Seri Robinson, her book, and Sculpting Wood contemporary tools and techniques by Mark Lindquist. That being said my thoughts, feelings and experiments are my own. If spalting is just rotten wood why can’t you just go out in to the woods and find it? Well you can. However it may be more difficult than you think f...

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View ScottBelleri's profile

Gift Projects #2: Making Cutting Boards Out Of a Single Peice of Solid Wood

05-17-2018 06:05 PM by ScottBelleri | 0 comments »

I made these paddle-style cutting boards out of solid 6/4” maple. This is thick enough that they shouldn’t warp, and they can be sanded down a number of times. It is called a paddle-style cutting board because its handle makes it look a bit like a paddle. The handle makes it easy to carry and hang, and also gives it a unique character. Sugar maple is an ideal wood for cutting boards because it is hard, but not so hard that it will dull your knives. Really, the only import...

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Violin Kit #7: Setting up

04-28-2018 11:16 PM by Dave Rutan | 3 comments »

!https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/p7×1uwq Putting the fiddle together and finishing it are just part of this process. A lot has to be done to set it up to be played. I began by re-reaming the hole for the end button since some of my finish got in it and made the hole smaller. Then I taped the tuning pegs. The pegs come bigger than necesary and should be tapered down for a new installation. If I were dealing with an older instrument, one that had seen some time and we...

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Violin Kit #6: Putting finish on

04-23-2018 11:12 PM by Dave Rutan | 7 comments »

Warning. Appalling methods below I finall got to the point where I feel I’ve finished the finish on this kit violin. I used water base mahogany stain and water base polyurethane. Purists will definitely not approve. The fiddle looks aniquey and old to me which is sort of what I wanted. One of the things I’m counting on with this finish is that the polyurethane will yellow over time. This should improve the look. Plus the wood should darken a little bit. The wood for the kit wasn’t the be...

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Violin Kit #5: Creating the saddle

04-14-2018 12:43 AM by Dave Rutan | 0 comments »

The only part of this violin kit that was not included, not mentioned in the auction description, not in the photos, etc., was the saddle on which the tailpiece anchor rides. I decided to make one from a piece of cherry that I got when a tree was taken down at our church.

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Violin Kit #4: Attaching the Neck

04-11-2018 08:44 PM by Dave Rutan | 3 comments »

First thing is to cut down the back button closer to the shape it needs to be. This will be trimmed after the neck is glued on. Glue is applied to both pieces and the neck is clamped into position. Not much pressure is needed for this. Where the neck joins the body, the gap is supposed to measure 6mm (or whatever the Imperial equivalent is). At the end of the fingerboard, the top of the fingerboard ‘should’ measure about 7/8 of an inch. Mine is a little bit hi...

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Violin Kit #3: Fitting the Neck

04-11-2018 08:22 PM by Dave Rutan | 5 comments »

The main part of this violin kit is fitting the neck to the body of the instrument. To do this a mortise must be created in the neck end of the instrument (the one opposite the end button end) that not only fits the neck root as tightly as possible, but also holds it at the proper angle and height. You start by cutting the overhand off the top plate, holding the neck in place for straightness and marking where it should go. Then you cut within your lines to a depth of about a quarter...

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View DaveFFMedic's profile

Recovering wood from discarded pallets

04-10-2018 07:56 PM by DaveFFMedic | 6 comments »

LOML asked me to make a pallet wood accent wall in our kitchen. I set to task of recovering boards from discarded pallets. I searched around and didn’t find any definitive information on the best way to disassemble the pallets. I did some trial and error and found the quickest way for me to disassemble them. In the following video, I show how I took apart the pallets in about 2 hours time. Enjoy. https://youtu.be/ZEX7xrofNHg

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