Top finished Frame assembled Four-inch long T30 lags secure the top timbers. Laminated or not? By laying out my jointlines carefully, I was able to laminate some 8/4 and 5/4 together. The glueline is at the angle of the timber, so it is not visible. In addition, I laminated some thin veneers on both sides. Back to the project page… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/71281
End assembly joints are drawbored and pegged with 3/8” walnut pegs. I use this pounding block to set the walnut buttons to the right depth. The buttons conceal slotted screw holes that attach the breadboard ends. Next up is fitting the keyed tenons that connect the two end assemblies.
The table assembly is now complete. Since the leaves store in the table, the aprons needed to be hinged. I used short piano (continuous) hinges from hardware source.com. The hinges are 4.5” long, and lock at 90 degrees, similar to jewlery box hinges. I used inset rare earth magnets to lock the hinged aprons in there in-use positions. Felt lines the frame, which creates a nice little nest for the leaves. The table extends to accept two 12” leaves v...
The dining table is well underway, with the frame assembled and equilizer slides installed. I think there are some misconceptions about equilizer slides. They work for pedastal tables, or any design where the legs are stationary when opening the table. I had to do some searching to find slides that would accomodate this 46” wide by 104” long table. It will have two 12” leaves, and is 80” long when closed. The other spec I needed was...
Here are the steps I use to fit an armrest to the armchairs. As usual start with a mortise. Use a sanding stick that is nearly as wide as the mortise. Attach 100 grit sandpaper to only one side of the sanding stick. Use the sanding stick at a slight angle to clean up the mortise. The angle in the picture is exaggerated for clarity. A slight angle will prevent damage to the exposed side of the mortise, as well as make assembly easier. Fit the tenon as you go until you have a nice sn...
I am now midway through a project to build a mission dining set. It will include 6 side chairs and two end chairs. I started with the chair construction using quartersawn white Oregon oak that I kiln dried myself. The chair design is a modern version of the arts and crafts style that is also very comfortable. The style was inspired by Kevin Rodel, Gustav Stickley, and Elbert Hubbard. I had fun designing them on Google Sketchup. It is surprising how many hours it ta...
I found another day off, so I immediately ran out into the shop before I could get distracted. I was able to finish the joinery on the base ends. As with everything else in life, the relative ease of the BeadLock Pro has disadvantages in repeatable accuracy. I don’t know how or why, but I do eight mortises and they only come out within 1/16” of each other. This has caused a 1/8” difference between the mortises, pretty much ruining my reveal on the spindles. I’ll f...
I was able to squeeze another good day in the shop around work. I ran off to buy some more oak, then got home and planed enough of it down to glue up the stretchers/aprons for the table ends. While the laminations were cooking, I decided to give the BeadLock Pro a whirl. Having made integral tenons with chiseled mortises, and loose tenons with the router, I have to say this method is considerably easier and faster. First, I was able to cut off the parts to their finished length, without...
It’s been months since I’ve been able to do any woodworking. I guess being busy in this economy is a good thing. I finally got a couple of days in the shop to address in-progress projects. The biggest was my mental block on the 4-sided quartersawn legs for the dining table. In a previous entry, I discussed how I botched the lock miter joint. It took me a while to get up the nerve to get back to work on them because if I biffed it again, they’d be too thin and I’d ...
I finally had a day off, so I chopped up the messed up lock-mitered legs by setting the blade right up against the fence at a 45 degree angle. I was able to push the legs through with the help of a featherboard to be as safe as possible. I chopped a bit off each side, but I think the next version will be much better, even if they’re up to 1/2” smaller on each face. I started to run the freshly liberated faces through the table saw to reestablish fresh mitered edges to prepare f...
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