Plans I geared up today to finish the table that was started three years ago. I began by reviewing all of the original plans. Starting with the book “The Furniture of Gustav Stickley” by Joseph J. Bavaro & Thomas L. Mossman. This book is a great Stickley starter book for furniture making. I modified the original table by making it shorter in length. My old style drawings…..I also wanted to try a few new things in SketchUp that I had learned over at the Fine Woodw...
Cutting the tenon with a router and edge guide jig. This is the setup described by Gregory Paolini. It works well, the only trouble is you have to flip the table several times while sneaking up on the final depth of cut. I recommend cutting only the first pass, then flip and check the fit. Cutting all the way to the shoulder will make it difficult to support the router. The jig is clamped in place, and stays put while you flip the top. Double sided jig helps align the shoulders of t...
Hello everyone. I have been busy making stuff and have finally finished a video that has been almost a year in the making. I made this video to be like a commercial for me and my work so it doesn’t give any tutorial. I do have a series of videos to be published soon that are more along that line. My goal as a video maker is to provide the viewer with an alternative to the typical format of woodworking videos; where a guy stands across the bench and talks at the camera, showing lit...
I never would have guessed that cutting 4 mortises would take all afternoon. Because the mortises are angled to match the wedges, the fitting process takes a little longer than usual. I cut the first one by hand, then decided to cut the rest at the mortiser. Cutting past the layout line on the shoulder side of the mortise will ensure the joint pulls tight. Keys installed. A few taps on the wedges and the shoulders draw up tight. The keys were cut on the bandsaw. When the k...
End assembly joints are drawbored and pegged with 3/8” walnut pegs. I use this pounding block to set the walnut buttons to the right depth. The buttons conceal slotted screw holes that attach the breadboard ends. Next up is fitting the keyed tenons that connect the two end assemblies.
Which Wax?I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly. Here is a shot with one base assembly (right) finished with the wax. The other is not (left) Booooooooooring.After finishing the base and the under...
Here it is delivered to house. It takes two people to carry each stump and six men to carry the top up the stairs and into the house. I sure am glad I was the one taking the pictures. The measurements on this table are 81 1/2” x 44” and 31 1/2” tall.
Top finished Frame assembled Four-inch long T30 lags secure the top timbers. Laminated or not? By laying out my jointlines carefully, I was able to laminate some 8/4 and 5/4 together. The glueline is at the angle of the timber, so it is not visible. In addition, I laminated some thin veneers on both sides. Back to the project page… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/71281
The table assembly is now complete. Since the leaves store in the table, the aprons needed to be hinged. I used short piano (continuous) hinges from hardware source.com. The hinges are 4.5” long, and lock at 90 degrees, similar to jewlery box hinges. I used inset rare earth magnets to lock the hinged aprons in there in-use positions. Felt lines the frame, which creates a nice little nest for the leaves. The table extends to accept two 12” leaves v...
A question was asked in part 1 of this series on how to flatten the top… I started replying in the comment thread, but decided to just make it part 2. I’m investigating building a dining table myself. What is involved in “flattening” the table top? Any special tools or large equipment required? I ve seen people use parallel rails and a router sled for rounds and slabs, I suppose that might work? As with most woodworking tasks, there are multiple ways to accomplish...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1692 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 91 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- Life as an Amateur Woodworker - 69 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1717 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- dbhost - 402 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 286 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 231 entries
- Betsy - 228 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- stefang - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 203 entries
- robscastle - 196 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 190 entries
- Dave Rutan - 189 entries
- Rustic - 189 entries