I don’t have any 8/4 or 12/4 to make the legs and side aprons. Online 12/4 X36 square blanks are very expensive ($40 on Rockler) plus most of them are glued up. So I decided to make them from existing 6/4 and 4/4 stock. When the changes were made, I needed roughly 20 BF of 4/4 and 20 BF of 6/4 cherry for the legs, side aprons, various stretchers, as well as the drawer fronts and the back rail. I also needed some 5/4 square walnut spindles and some 4/4 square walnut spindles. The 4/...
Great, now I know what I want to build AND I think it will be compatible with the style of other furnishings in the room. I have a picture, provided by Captain Skully, since I forgot to post one. Many thanks!! Before I go any further, I must give credit to Kevin Rodel for his design. I wish I could afford to buy his works, they are amazing. Thank you for providing the rest of us with such inspirational pieces to imitate. If this turns out well I might try reproducing the Glasgow desk...
First things first: I am a mostly self-taught woodworker that has been at it for about 20 years. I’ve made a wide range of projects, mostly focused around furniture and accessories for the house, typically Craftsman, Arts and Crafts, Stickley, and Greene and Greene influences. I’ve been working in the chemical manufacturing world as a chemical engineer for 27 years. I’m currently a Project Engineer by day, working for one of the largest corn processing companies in the world building ch...
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8TZf3psYDM In this video I show you how I built this very simple sharpening station while trying out a few new methods along the way.
https://youtu.be/Daol4a-Y6rI Assembing the carcase.
We’ll its finally finished. I’ve been busy since my last entry, but I kept pecking away at it. I had some issue with the finishing. I had the top all done, and decided to add one more coat. I had wet sanded it down with 400, and wiped on the final coat. The coat did not cover like when I was brushing it on, so I let it dry for 6 hour and brushed on what I thought would be the final coat. When I came back, the finish had bubbled in several spots. So, back to sanding. I...
[Above] I used an actual bracket assembly to locate the holes in the spine segments. These allow a bolt to keep the tables from falling out from the spine. [Below] The larger table showing the rear cut out and the pine edging. I chamfered the bottom edge of both tables to give them a lighter, tray-like appearance. [Below] A few coats of spray lacquer is all that’s needed. I decided not to go to the trouble of staining this project. The birch plywood looks nice against the pi...
[Above] After having some special alone time with my band saw, I cut out the new pieces for the brackets. Before removing the tape, I broke out my new friend and sanded the curved edges. [Below] Breaking the tape shows the dadoes I made on the pieces. This time they came out perfect! The pieces fit together pretty tight. [Below] So I glued them together and clamped them. [Below] So now it’s just a matter of drilling, sanding, assembling and a little more cutting.
[Above] Here’s the fix for the bracket size problem. There’s so much glue surface on it that I’m confident it would hold. But… [Below] When I put it on the spine, I discovered that I hadn’t thought far enough ahead in my fix. The side pieces are not long enough to cover the spine segment completely. To be exact, they are 3/4 inches too short=the thickness of a spine segment. :( [Below] So I’ll dig out that scrap piece of very similar plywood ...
[Above] I decided I should make the brackets next since they need to hold the tables to the spine (Confused yet?) So I taped the two sides together and cut them on the band saw. If you saw my recent tip you’ll know why they ended up a little more free-form than I planned. [Below] Then I sanded them to uniformity on the drill press. There are two sets, one longer than the other. [Below] After breaking the bracket sets apart, I cut a dado in them to add some strength. First I ...
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