So I started the deck in late June, early July. I came out on the first day of October, which was a chilly day and much to my dismay, this is what I found!!! When it is hot out, and the deck is soaking up the suns heat, there is no gab what so ever! But, when its cold, every seam pulls open. These two were/are the worst. Interestingly enough, the Trek Decking shrinks next to nothing compared to the Choice decking! I was/am disappointed in the Choice Decking Brand! A 1/4 inch lo...
Again, this is a junction where I continue to praise the Festool Track Saw. I cleaned up the edges of all the boards bordering the compass by simply laying the track down and setting the depth. The lines came out nice and crisp. I then followed that up by rounding over the edges. I did not want sharp edges on a surface bare feet would be on very frequently. I had to order a special 1/8in Amana Round Over bite with a small bronze bushing brazed on to the the end. As a standard 1/4in...
With all the joists leveled out it was time to start laying out the deck. I started with the points of the star. Here its all cut out but not screwed down. I used the Kreg Hidden Deck Fastener System. I really like the system! It is very well designed and thought through. You do have to be careful you do not over bore your pocket holes or over drive your screws. The composite decking can also shift so it is easy to run out of square and true, but that is not the systems faul...
Once I got the joists in I started on the framework for the compass. I really wanted it to be located in a place in the deck where it would be visible, not necessarily in the center of the since that is where the table and chairs would end up. I can honestly say I didn’t do a bunch of number crunching, I just did what felt right. I also new that the points of the star where going to be a very busy place so I wanted to use wide blocks for adequate support and screwing surface....
This build was not a rational one what so ever! As most of you know I was/am up to my head in projects already; so why build a deck? There really is a simple answer. I love my wife and I want peace in my house!:). Theresa really wanted a deck, and it was not going to wait. So, if I was going to build it, I was at least going to build it the with a Nate twist!:) I hate doing things twice and if you know me at all, I think outside most boxes of normalcy. The first step was getting things squ...
my wife has always wanted a house with a big front porch to sit out on. for the past 20years, i kicked the can down the road and promised her i would build her a big front porch, next year. decided to try to get it done before the snow flies this year. got plans approved by city in late september and started work in october, so i know i gotta hustle, and …. pray for good weather. (we were very lucky this year to have had a very long dry fall and non existent early winter. snows h...
Hello fellow “woodies” I am not near the craftsman many of you likely are, but I am hopeful this community can help me find a solution to my project that I can apply. Effectively, I am building teak deck grates for an antique 1956 22’ shepherd runabout boat. the grates are going to be laid over top of the existing marine plywood subfloor and are purely for looks. I have 3/4” spacing (as well as thickness) on the grates surrounded by 2 1/2” border. Eve...
Overview Fiberglassing the deck is more complicated than the hull since the cockpit meets the deck at such a sharp angle. I completed the prep work for the deck at the same time I worked on the hull. The remaining steps to fiberglass the deck include fitting the cloth, applying epoxy, sanding, and fixing mistakes. Fitting the Cloth I chose to fiberglass the deck using only four pieces of cloth. I’m not sure I will use this technique on the next two boats. It was a challenge...
Fiberglass Experiment I applied a layer of fiberglass cloth to the plywood hull panels before work, betting they would be “green” cured in the afternoon upon my return. Using Raka 127 Resin and Raka 350 hardener at 72 degrees and 48% humidity the fiberglass was set perfectly in about 8 hours. It was bonded, yet flexible enough to not restrict the plywood from curving around the hull ribs. The epoxy is wet into the fiberglass cloth with a foam roller. I never pay...
Tools for the Job Planing the gunnels requires a sharp hand plane, a straight edge and a flexible stick. I use a 10” smoothing plane for this task since it is easier to handle than a longer plane and much of the work is on a curve. On larger boats, I’ve used a hand-held power planer to good effect. I started with that and it seemed like overkill for 3/4” gunnels. Rib Transitions The angle that the plywood skin will land on the gunnel changes throughout the length...
- My Journey As A Creative Designer - Woodworking and Beyond - 1807 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Toy costruction - 129 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 113 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 98 parts
- Woodworking on a Half-Shoestring - 91 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Life as an Amateur Woodworker - 81 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1832 entries
- dbhost - 440 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- mafe - 321 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 254 entries
- robscastle - 245 entries
- Dave Rutan - 245 entries
- Betsy - 228 entries
- stefang - 221 entries
- A Slice of Wood Workshop - 214 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 207 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- bandit571 - 201 entries