Whatever was selected for the backing material of this cabinet needed to add strength, look good and be 1/2” thick. Plywood meets two out of three of those requirements, but I just can’t fall in love with the idea of plywood in my tool till. Biggest hurdle with any other material is the work I might have to do to get it to that 1/2” thickness. I checked the remaining inventory of poplar (says Don W, and he should know) boards salvaged from somewhere, some time ago. This s...
I’m a BONEHEAD.I like my Dado blades.But they have their limitations.Especially pulling the blade through on your radial arm saw.Ripping a 3/4 inch dado 1 inch deep in a piece of hardwood tougher than oak (I have mallets made from this stuff) exceeds their abilityWhen you try anyway the chippers decide to group together in a show of rebellion and the teeth get mad enough to fly off the handle…er…blade. I knew better.I was in a rush.The fix was $75 at saw stop getting new ...
Complicated Face Frame The Dr. White’s chest is a combination wardrobe/chest of drawers and has a complicated face frame. There are eight mortise and tenon joints, ten dovetail joints, and one half-lap joint in the frame. I cut the dovetail joints with my Leigh dovetail jig. Watch this video to see how I cut the female portion of the face frame dovetail joints. I cut the male portion of the joint using the same jig in the vertical mode and the bit set at the same depth. NOTE: Chip out...
I posted a picture of a Craftsman Style Frame i made and i thought if anyone was interested, i have a two part video series of how i did it. The main jointery is the use of a half lap. It’s a simple and yet strong joint. I decided to show how to make it using both power tools and hand tools. Hope you enjoy it.chad stanton
I’ve always heard that—if, for example, you’re going to quit smoking—it helps to tell everybody you know that you’re going to quit, and on what date you’re going to quit. It helps get you committed (something that’s been talked about, in my case, for years!). So … here I go. My next ww project is a Shaker Style night stand. Actually, it’s two: his and hers. I’m going to build mine first, so I can butcher IT, and then tra...
I’m finding out the hard way, that in order to become a good finisher I need to be an even better refinisher!This has been a long road. I started out using a brush-on spar varnish and quickly realized that there had to be a better way. Now, there is nothing wrong with a brush-on finish except that a bar top is highly visible area and can show a lot of imperfections. Spray-on finishes are always going to give you the best finish. I’ve recently purchased a kremlin sprayer and love i...
The face frames were not all that involved so I did not take a lot of pictures of the cuts and positioning of the parts. Most of the pieces were square edged pieces joined with dominos. At one point I had to decide on whether or not to include a reveal around the curved rail that framed the open space in the front of the piece. I did take pictures of the face frame both ways, in the end I decided to go with the reveal because I felt that the shadow line provided by the reveal really added...
I needed some shelves in my office area, and wanted to challenge myself to come up with a super simple yet still strong design using random scraps. They’re basically 2×2 chunks with a dado cut to accept a bit of plywood. They’ve actually got the potential to not be very ugly, but I call these ones ugly for sure on account of the smudged paint, uneven bracket sizes and scrap planks thrown on top :) I used a stack of 3 circular saw blades as my dado set. The blades alon...
It starts with a plan… I know their not super sophisticated, but with a few 1” pin nails to help reinforce the glue joint, they feel pretty solid. I’ve had this stack dado for a while now, but haven’t had need of it till now…so I had to make an auxillary fence and a ZCI Here’s the set up for cutting the lap joints first lap joint gluing up the drawers… I really need to get some more clamps…. I like using the paper t...
The dado for the juniper panels (see the image of the parts) is quite wide. I used a 1” straight router bit in the saw table. I was inattentive on one and let it get by about 3/4”. Though the error would likely never be seen, I decided to plug it. In the image you’ll see the plug glued in and the scrap from which it was taken. The second one shows the result of putting a little glue in the voids and sanding with a RO machine and 150x. All the parts are now machined f...
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