My pine is all ready to go. Knotty Pine is difficult to work with because there are often holes and cracks in the knots. I try and work around that as much as possible, but I love the look of pine, and I feel the knots just add character. For the panels in my doors I was going to put 1/4” pine faced plywood. In my local city I could not find 1/4” ply that had two good sides which I need for the doors because they are seen from both sides. Instead I bought tongue and groov...
Up to now, things were relatively easy. Now the actual work was going to start. To make the drawers, I decided to use Poplar. However, I did something I would now change. I purchased 4/4 of the stuff with the idea that I would resaw in half on my bandsaw. In retrospect, I should have purchased 8/4 and cut it into thirds. After resawing, planing and sanding, the boards were much thinner than I had hoped. The next decision was how to construct the drawers themselves. I have an Akeda Dovetai...
In my above video I show how to cut a simple dado joint with basic woodworking hand tools. What is a dado joint used for? A dado joint is used for securing shelves inside cabinets or book shelves. (View the original blog post here). TOOLS THAT YOU’LL NEEDEven though I have a nice tool buying guide (here), I’m still often asked for links to the tools that I use in my videos, so here is a list of tools that I used in this video: WORKBENCH:-Sjoberg Elite 2500 Beech Workbench (with o...
Before I cut my rails to length I make sure the exact size I need. I won’t go into the fractions, etc, because no one will have the same sizes as I have anyway, but it’s important to check that the doors will fit the opening with the hinge and a space between. I laid my pieces out before putting the tenons on the ends of the rails. I also made sure my pieces of “panelling” would fit into the grooves in the rails. Here is one of the rails with the haunched t...
Woke up and ate some more ding dongs this morning. Since I’m figuring this out as I go, I thought I’d work on the inside of this chest of drawers. I decided to copy the image of the drawer dividers that you see looking at the front of the dresser, and transpose it onto the inside back of it and make the drawer runners mortise and tenon.. I don’t know why, but here is the beginning of the process. Time to bust out the poplar….........The inside drawer dividers are also...
So, I recently built a new cedar gate & needed some handles. I didn’t want to go out & buy some, so decided to make my own. Inspired by “http://lumberjocks.com/projects/48854” CaptainAhab’s handles, I ended up with:Here’s how I built them:Starting with a lamination of 3 pieces of clear Cedar which I planed down to about 2 1/8” thick:Obviously, I made a little template for the top curves out of 1/4” plywood & cut the top curve with the ban...
Complicated Face Frame The Dr. White’s chest is a combination wardrobe/chest of drawers and has a complicated face frame. There are eight mortise and tenon joints, ten dovetail joints, and one half-lap joint in the frame. I cut the dovetail joints with my Leigh dovetail jig. Watch this video to see how I cut the female portion of the face frame dovetail joints. I cut the male portion of the joint using the same jig in the vertical mode and the bit set at the same depth. NOTE: Chip out...
I’m a BONEHEAD.I like my Dado blades.But they have their limitations.Especially pulling the blade through on your radial arm saw.Ripping a 3/4 inch dado 1 inch deep in a piece of hardwood tougher than oak (I have mallets made from this stuff) exceeds their abilityWhen you try anyway the chippers decide to group together in a show of rebellion and the teeth get mad enough to fly off the handle…er…blade. I knew better.I was in a rush.The fix was $75 at saw stop getting new ...
Cut my first dadoes tonight with a real dado blade set. Several years ago, pre Topamax, I bought a wobble blade. It needed an insert so I took my saw model to Sears. They had to order one. It didn’t fit. I figured I’d have to make one. I got busy with other things and never got back to it. Tonight I needed to make some serious dadoes 3/4” wide. I had some salvaged 1/4” hardboard. I roughed out an insert and friction fit it on the ends to hold it securely in ...
Now that the dado in the horizontal piece is complete put it temporarily in place over the vertical piece. The joint should be snug but neither loose or tight. Score the lines for cutting the curves on the vertical piece. You can see here the score lines ready to begin cutting. Repeat all the steps shown in earlier installments of the blog to create a dado in this piece that is 1/2 the depth of the lumber, etc. Here you see both pieces with the waste removed. They are...
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